Where is Abri Cro-Magnon? Steve will show you.

“Don’t think of a visit to this region without booking Steve as your guide – his insight and knowledge never fails to amaze us. This is our third visit and once again we have realised that there are still plenty more things for us to do in the area”.

These are words left in our Visitors Book and were written by a family after their third visit to Les Rosiers. It gives us a lovely buzz when people comment so favourably, whether it’s about a self-catering holiday based here at Les Rosiers with days out guided by Steve or a full board, fully guided Caves & Castles Tour based here.

So what is it all about? Why the excitement?

Well, the Vezere Valley is one of the most important areas in the world when it comes to the history of man. Our species, Cro-Magnon man, was discovered here and named after an easily over-looked site down at Les Eyzies. Most people wouldn’t even know to look for it, never mind where to find it, but Steve can take you there.

How do we know this? Through painstaking archaeological excavation, hours of post-excavation work and, very often, sheer luck! Evidence from the past can be extremely fragile and easy to overlook.

Our local chateau - Steve (centre) with guests

As well as prehistoric sites, the area is renowned for it’s castles – or chateaux as they are called in French. There are over a 1000 – ranging from magnificent Castelnaud-la-Chapelle which towers over the Dordogne river dominating the landscape to Le Petit Marsac above La Madeleine troglodyte village Chateau Milandes, the former home of Josephine Baker and her adopted “rainbow” family is a favourite with all ages. The poignant story of her life and the thrilling raptor flight displays in the grounds of the magnificent chateau make an unusual combination.

So much has gone on in this region for so long – the Hundred Years War has left many a mark. The Dordogne was often on the front line and the region was frequently pillaged and burnt. The bastide towns with their uniformly laid out street patterns were laid out by the French or English kings as territorial markers, when they attempted to extend their kingdoms.

There’s so much else to do to – gardens to visit, museums, exhibitions, walking, riding, cycling, canoeing – the list goes on. The area is also known for it’s gastronomy – our neighbours produce the most wonderful walnut oil – and foie gras is a favourite with many. The local markets are great for buying fresh, colourful local produce – ideal if you’re on a self-catering holiday and, of course, there’s dozens of local restaurants to try.

So often we’re asked to show people ‘the Dordogne’ in 24 or 48 hours! It’s a huge department – the 3rd biggest in France! You just can’t do it justice in this time and it is such a shame when people come on ‘whistle stop tours’. Ok, so the Dordogne box has been ticked – but what can you really see in such a short time? Holidays shouldn’t just be about ‘ticking boxes’ – so much time is spent travelling from place to place, that the time to actually see places, to stand and admire, and ‘get under the skin’ of the area is drastically reduced.

A Day Tour is a great way to ‘whet your appetite’ but please don’t think you can see it all in just one day! By all means come and have a ‘taster’ but bear in mind you are only just ‘scratching the surface’. The philosophy of the Slow Travel Tours group is to travel slowly, stay a while and use a local guide. It’s a good investment. You save time and fuel and really get the most out of your visit – and that’s what it should all be about surely?

Everyone in the Slow Travel Tours Group joins with us in wishing you all the very best for the Festive Season and the New Year – and if you have a break from work, we hope you’ll take the opportunity to plan your 2012 travels!

Steve and Judie Burman live in the beautiful Vezere Valley in the Dordogne region of South-West France. Together they run Caves and Castles, specialising in prehistoric Cave Art and medieval Castles Tours. Small groups tours (up to six people) are based at their recently converted farmhouse. Alternatively, they offer non-residential tours for a day or longer.

Professional archaeologist, Steve and his wife Judie love to share their passion for the ‘Cradle of Humanity.’ World famous sites such as Lascaux, the ‘Sistine Chapel of Prehistory’ and Font de Gaume are close by. Coupled with gastronomic meals and superb wines, your Caves & Castles Tour is really special

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

The canal system of western Europe is very extensive, and this network was built (largely in the 1800’s) to form an artery for commercial freight traffic. It is pleasing to note that there is still a huge amount of freight transported on the larger canals of northern France, Holland and Germany. Why is this pleasing? Not solely for romantic reasons, but particularly because water transport is a very fuel-efficient way to move bulk loads. Recent studies have shown that at present fuel prices a barge carrying 250 tonnes of freight competes equally with road freight – and we can be sure that fuel prices are only going to rise!

Working barges

In the “hay days” of barge transport, tens of thousands of working barges were plying their trade. In the second half of the 1900’s, however, this trade reduced considerably. Smaller barges were less economic, and many went out of business and were broken up. Similarly, many of the smaller canals went into decline, some of them were even closed.

The evolution continued. In the early 1960’s, people started to explore the French canals in their own boats; fifteen years later, the first hire boats appeared, and within a very few years the first hotel barges appeared. Little by little this water-borne tourism developed – hire boat fleets became more numerous and the number of hotel barges also increased. At the same time, the French government realised that the potential for tourism on the inland waterways was huge and largely unexploited, and work was done in many areas to improve the canal infrastructure – pleasure ports were established, facilities were added, in some cases canals were re-opened after being closed for a number of years.

This growth of water-based tourism has gone unchecked. Now, every year over 330,000 visitors come to France to enjoy a holiday on a boat of some kind, and the industry is worth around 352 million euros a year. The figures for this success story might appear off-putting to the discerning traveller looking for an exclusive and special vacation, but do remember that France has 8,500 kilometres of navigable inland waterways and so it is very easy to find the calm and peace that should be associated with a holiday on the water! Even more important , though, for those seeking an “off the beaten track” holiday, is to carefully select the actual canal. On our hotel barge the Saint Louis we call the area in which we operate our “hidden corner of France”, and there are days in which we cruise without seeing another boat moving on the water!

The tree-lined Canal Garonne

The effective re-cycling of some barges from their freight-carrying life to their tourism life has been an interesting phenomenon. You start off with a barge that has a very sound hull and excellent machinery, designed for constant daily use on the canal system, but redundant because of changes in transport economics. In place of the cargo hold you can install accommodation – bedrooms, saloons, kitchens, bathrooms. The original space was huge, and you have the opportunity to create accommodation that is high-technology, including central heating, air conditioning, en-suite bathroom facilities, and so on. In the early days of hotel barges, things were far more basic. Passengers on a hotel barge then would be likely to sleep in bunk beds, and to share one bathroom with all other passengers, finding hot or cold water as if by lottery. Nowadays, you can find some distinctly luxurious barges. On the Saint Louis, for example, you will find luxuriously appointed cabins with single beds or queen-sized double beds, with individual, spacious fully tiled bathrooms, and with a saloon that is fully panelled, that has a solid hardwood bar, and that has original barge etchings around the walls. The standard of maintenance and the attention to detail all contribute to the ambiance of luxury.

Interior of the Saint Louis

What would a guest on a luxury hotel barge expect to find? Why would this be a holiday of a lifetime? Why is a barge holiday different? The answers to these questions lie in looking at the overall package. Certainly, the barge itself would be luxuriously appointed, elegant, and pristine. Secondly, the gourmet food, the quality wines, and the caring professionalism of the crew would impress on an hour by hour basis. Thirdly, the daily excursions to well researched places of interest would add a richness to the holiday. But – beyond everything – the way in which a hotel barge cruises the canals provides the essential – and irreplaceable – backdrop to a barge holiday. By this I mean that the barge travels very slowly and quietly through the French countryside, all manoeuvres are carried out slowly and gently, the view is constantly and slowly changing, daily and hourly planning is looked after by your crew, the word “relaxation” takes on a new dimension, and you start to absorb and appreciate what we call the “Zen Factor” of barging.

Cruising on the Saint Louis

Alasdair and Barbara have lived full-time in France for some seven years, and they are now in their sixth season of operation with their Hotel Barge theSaint Louis. They come from the west coast of Scotland, and they each have wide-ranging hospitality experience.

The Saint Louis is a 30-metre converted Dutch barge, providing luxurious accommodation for up to six guests. Cruises are by the week, in the Garonne valley between Toulouse and Bordeaux.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Although most of our European Experiences weeks are open to anyone, we do offer some trips for a very special group: women travelers. We’ve already designated our May 19-26, 2012 Luberon Experience trip as a special Women’s Week. We’re also considering opening up a second Women’s Week in the Chianti region of Tuscany the week of June 9-16.

Laughing in the Luberon (photo contest winner by Lindsay)

Women’s Week is very important to me personally… it’s the trip I’d always dreamed of! I met Charley when I was 35 and we got married the next year. Before then I’d always wanted to go to Europe, but I didn’t have anyone to go with.  After Charley and I got married and started traveling together, I met many women who wanted to travel abroad but didn’t want to go alone or end up on a tour surrounded by couples. My European travel experiences had such an impact on me, and I really wanted to help more women travel and especially to experience our beautiful area of Provence. So when we started European Experiences, Charley and I decided to designate at least one of our weeks each year as a “Women’s Week.” He and I both really look forward to these groups.

Lisa traveled solo from Australia

Since our first Luberon Experience Women’s Week in 2007, our all-women groups have included women of all ages, from all over the USA, Australia and Canada. Our women’s groups have included solo travelers, college roommates, friends, mothers and daughters, and sisters. These groups bond very quickly, and in just a few hours, everyone is among friends. I love being part of these groups.

I asked several women who have been part of our Womens Weeks groups to share more about their experiences:

“We had organized a group of girlfriends. My friend Lavonne suggested we do a girls’ trip to Provence and I found Kathy and Charley’s week to be a perfect fit. We all loved visiting gardens, shopping in charming markets, dining on great food and fabulous wines, laughing, and exploring lovely Provence with our experienced guides who took us to the best of the best. It was worry free–no decisions, just have fun. I especially spending the week with my sister who had never travelled abroad.” (Lindsay – California)

Sharing the Luberon with new friends

“I’m not a big traveler and this was my first trip to Europe. My husband doesn’t travel at all but my sister Eileen is an experienced traveler. The Luberon Experience Women’s Week was exactly what we needed for my first trip abroad. I did not have to decide where to eat, what to see, and most of all how to get around in a foreign country.

Our group included another pair of sisters, a mother and daughter, two childhood friends, and one single traveler. We mixed and mingled all week, and many of us still keep in touch. I think Women’s Week is a fabulous idea for a female single traveler.  I’ll do another trip with Kathy and Charley. I would not hesitate to go alone because I know once I am introduced to the group, I’ll have companions for the week and friends for a lifetime.” (Lorraine – South Carolina)

“As I was travelling on my own, I thought it more likely that within an all women’s group I would be included by others in activities in the non-structured tour times. I was right. I loved the flexibility. If in the free time I wanted to read a book or have a sleep, I could. Or if I wanted to go for a walk, go shopping or go to a café or restaurant, there always seemed to be someone else to share this experience with. Everyone got along together very well. It was great getting to know everyone and sharing our life stories. I felt there developed over the week a very strong sense of companionship within this lovely group of women with such different lives. We enjoyed a lot of laughter and good times – who could forget our wonderful lunch with our host playing the guitar and singing whilst some of the group danced!” (Lisa – Queensland, Australia)

Anne enjoyed the trip with her mom

Sisters Cathy and Ginny had an adventure

“My mother and I chose the Women’s Week tour because it seemed so very appropriate for us as a mother/daughter duo. It was a wonderful opportunity to connect with other women and each other. I really enjoyed the feeling of camaraderie in our group. There was a feeling of easy companionship, a feeling of acceptance, and at times a shared joy in the experience. One special memory is the ‘on your own’ evening meal my mom and I shared with two of the women we met in our group. We ate at the restaurant across the street from our B&B. We laughed and celebrated, sharing amazing conversation, food and wine.” (Anne – Minnesota)

“My sister Ginny and I wanted a small group tour in Provence and The Luberon Experience had everything we wanted. We also wanted to be in Paris on my 50th birthday and in Provence the next week. It happened to work out for us that it was Women’s Week.  I think we would have come regardless of that, but it really was a lot of fun. The women in the group seemed to be interested in the same types of things for the most part. We were very cohesive.” (Cathy – Iowa)

This was definitely a memorable Women's Week!

Valerie joined us for Women’s Week in 2009 and enjoyed it so much that she and her friend Julie came back this summer for one of our other Luberon Experience groups. “The women’s trip was a chance for all of us women to eat as much as we like, drink as much as we like, shop till we drop, and even have a beer and play cards, all while enjoying the most lovely place on earth. The trips themselves were the two best I ever had…well-orchestrated, friendly, fun-filled and full of warmth and charm.” (Valerie – Montana)

An all-women's group with Adventures in Italy

Fellow Slow Travel tour leader Kristi Steiner and her husband Bill of Adventures in Italy also often host all-women’s group and she beautifully describes what we’ve experienced in our Women’s Week. “Because most of our trips focus on exploring a creative art form while in Italy, our guests are often women. We see their level of sharing, of connecting, and of relaxing comfortably in this foreign land heightened by being with other women. Total strangers almost instantly become friends and often stay in close touch upon returning home.  We love our all-women’s groups because of the beautiful transformations we witness during their week with us.  We see the stress, the responsibilities, the worries of the world peel off weary shoulders day by enchanted day.  At the end of their trip, most women are glowing with a new found vibrancy and zest for life.”

Our 2010 Women's Week group in Provence

Whether you’re a woman traveling on your own or with a friend, sister, mother or daughter, an all-women’s tour could be just the trip you’ve always dreamed of! Or think about the special women in your life; this might also be the ideal type of trip for them.
 

Kathy Wood and her husband Charley lead European Experiences, week-long “slow tours” in some of the most beautiful areas of Europe, including The Luberon Experience in Provence, France. In 2012 they’ll host groups in the Luberon, the Chianti region of Tuscany, and the Salzkammergut region of Austria.

Kathy and Charley have been traveling in Europe for 20 years and love sharing their special places in Europe with other travelers. Read more about Kathy and Charley here.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Just take a look at this list of some of the situations typical travel insurance can cover:

Medical/dental expenses
Medical Emergency and hospital care (Accident or Sickness)
Emergency evacuation/Medical Air Evacuation
Trip cancellation/interruption/curtailment
Delayed departure, missed connection
Lost, stolen or damaged baggage, personal effects or travel documents
Delayed baggage (and emergency replacement of essential items)
Accidental death, injury or disablement benefit
Flight Connection was missed due to airline schedule
Travel Delays due to weather

This, of course, varies from company to company and you should check what’s included/excluded by various insurers before taking out a policy.

When booking on a Caves & Castles Tour, our guests are often fulfilling a long held dream – particularly to see the painted caves for this the Vezere Valley is world renowned. When that dream is realised, which often gives rise to feelings of great emotion and satisfaction – often reality far exceeds expectations. You can see pictures and films, but it’s only by seeing the images themselves that you can get a true appreciation of the scale, the complexity, the skill – it truly is awesome that our ancestors, so many years ago, were so technically proficient – as Picasso said “I can teach them nothing”.

So you dream the dream, you plan the dream, you realise the dream and set off on your trip, perhaps having spent a considerable amount of money. Then something goes wrong….

Here are a couple of examples:

4 Australian ladies planned a trip to celebrate the Big Birthday they all shared this year. Each input where they would like to go, what they would like to see. It involved a thought of planning and researching, but at last their Tour was put together. Each had their own plans, some more time available than others, but they were to link up in France for the leg of their Tour which would include visits to Lascaux II, Font de Gaume and Les Combarelles – some of the finest cave art in the world.

Then a problem arose for one of the group. Whilst in Turkey, she picked up a virus that really wiped her out – she was hospitalised. Managed to get to Paris, but was still so ill, she had to reluctantly decide to return to Australia and, of course, Sod’s Law being what it is, it was she who had most wanted to see the painted caves. This was a HUGE disappointment, but she had no choice, she was just too ill.

She was missed both by the group and by us – as the main organiser of this part of the trip, we’d built up a good relationship emailing and phoning and were looking forward to meeting up. Photos, texts and phone calls partly filled the gap, but, of course, she wasn’t with us – nothing could change that.

Lunch at Madame Murat's - but we're one short

As well as a huge disappointment, this could have been a financial disaster, but fortunately a travel policy was in place, so the loss was minimal and it’s possible to plan another trip. Ok, it won’t be quite the same, but the dream can still be fulfilled – that’s as good as it can be under the circumstances.

Similarly, American visitors arrived in Paris, full of excitement – at last they were to see those special caves they’d thought about for so long. A few days in Paris to rest up from travelling and take in some of the sites there – perfect. BUT then a problem arose in the form of sciatica – wow, that’s painful and the result was returning to the States for treatment. Another BIG disappointment – but again lessened because having travel insurance means that they can plan another trip in the Spring. Without it???? – it’s tough to decide to spend out that money all over again, doubling the cost of realising that particular dream when there are so many other places to see as well.

Absent Friends

Insurance is one of those things that you take out hoping you’ll never need to use it; hoping that by having paid for it, Sod’s Law says you won’t need it – but if problems do arise, you’ll be jolly glad you opted to ‘play it safe’. So, please, when you see something like ‘travel insurance strongly recommended’, don’t disregard it – it could be the difference between realising your dream – or not.

Steve and Judie Burman live in the beautiful Vezere Valley in the Dordogne region of South-West France. Together they run Caves and Castles, specialising in prehistoric Cave Art and medieval Castles Tours. Small groups tours (up to six people) are based at their recently converted farmhouse. Alternatively, they offer non-residential tours for a day or longer.

Professional archaeologist, Steve and his wife Judie love to share their passion for the ‘Cradle of Humanity.’ World famous sites such as Lascaux, the ‘Sistine Chapel of Prehistory’ and Font de Gaume are close by. Coupled with gastronomic meals and superb wines, your Caves & Castles Tour is really special

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Very often the places will be of historical interest, or will be beautiful, or they will be seriously unusual. One place we sometimes take guest to fits all three criteria – it is the oldest water lily nursery in the world, in the valley of the River Lot.

The Latour-Marliac nursery was founded in 1875, and it is very significent in that it was the source of inspiration for Claude Monet, as well as being the source of water lily plants that Monet bought to plant in his newly-created water garden at Giverny. The founder of the nursery, Joseph Bory Latour-Marliac, was a pioneer in breeding and hybridising water lilies, and it was at the World’s Fair in Paris in 1889 that Monet and Latour-Marliac met, brought together by the collection of sensational plants that Latour-Marliac had created.

Latour-Marliac pollinating a lily with a paint-brush

The nursery is open to the public, and visitors can stroll around the cultivation ponds, the lake, and the hothouse. There is a museum, a restaurant, and overall the whole place has an atmosphere that is deeply relaxing and very beautiful. The museum includes invoices and other documentation relating to the Claude Monet contact. It is interesting to see the terra cotta pots, that Latour-Marliac used 135 years ago for the propogation of his lilies.

One particularly stunning lily ito be found on the visit is the Victoria Giant Amazonian Water Lily. This plant has flowers that are nocturnal and hermaphroditic, and the pads can attain up to four feet in diameter.

The Giant Victoria

Not only is this visit one where a visitor can find great peace and relaxation, and where a plant enthusiast can find a unique collectionof lilies of historical interest, it is also a magical place for all those who take pleasure in finding other aspects of the natural world – for example the dragonflies and the frogs!

We have taken guests to this remarkable place four or five times during the 2011 season. It is just one of a very wide range of visits that people are unlikely to find if they travel independently.

Alasdair and Barbara have lived full-time in France for some seven years, and they are now in their sixth season of operation with their Hotel Barge theSaint Louis. They come from the west coast of Scotland, and they each have wide-ranging hospitality experience.

The Saint Louis is a 30-metre converted Dutch barge, providing luxurious accommodation for up to six guests. Cruises are by the week, in the Garonne valley between Toulouse and Bordeaux.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Sylvie and 3 very happy Australian visitors

Lunch at Madame Murat’s was one of these occasions. We’d been asked to organise a Cave Art & Castles Tour for 4 Australian ladies who were celebrating a ‘Big Birthday’ together with a European Tour. The cave art was top of one person’s list, for another it was churches and historic villages. As we were planning the Tour, we received an email asking if we could include Cahors market and a visit to see Mary Moody’s house. Why not, we thought, and set about researching what would be new territory for us.

Sunflowers and soft fruits in abundance at Cahors market

Mary Moody is an Australian author and television presenter and to be honest, we’d not heard of her books until now. She spends several months a year in France (she owns a house in Pomarede) and has written several books about her experiences here. The first was ‘Au Revoir’ – the story of how she ran away to France to have time to herself and fell in love with the country. ‘Lunch at Madame Murat’s’ is part of this series and in it she describes both in pictures and words the restaurant Chez Jeanne that has been in the Murat family for 5 generations.

The much treasured copy of Mary Moody's book Lunch at 'Madame Murat's'

What an experience. As you may know, mealtimes are important in France. Often you will see ‘HR’ in advertisements – Telephone xxxxxx (HR) – what does this mean? Hors Repas (hors = outside, repas = meal) – in other words, don’t interrupt my lunch! Many people in France still take the traditional 2 hour lunch break – offices and shops close, workmen down tools. Frequently they head to small restaurants for an ‘ouvrier’ – the term for a mid day meal. There they sit down to a 4 or 5 course meal and, of course, this being France, wine is served – typically a ¼ litre of red wine is included in the very modest price of around 12 euros! There may be a choice of menu, but at Madame Murat’s there are no menus! A chalkboard announces the ‘plat du jour’ (dish of the day), but otherwise you don’t know what the fare will be until your ‘serveuse’ (waitress) lets you in on the secret.

Soup is the norm for the first course, followed by charcuterie (terrines, pates and dried meats ) for which again France is famed – then the plat du jour, good hearty, sustaining food for the afternoon’s work ahead. On the day we visited succulent slices of melon, grown just up the hill were served with jambon paysage (country ham). The plat du jour was tete de veau (veal stuffed with herbs, rolled and roasted and our serveuse’s recommendation to have this dish of the day was good advice – it was delicious. What meal is complete without cheese? In France it is served before the dessert which gives a chance to savour the last of the very quaffable local wine with it before moving onto sweeter things. What a choice! Crème brule – delicious, smooth, creamy custard with a sweet, crunchy topping, apricot tart, a choice fresh fruits or superb local ice cream.

Madame Murat's Creme Brulee

Mary Moody is definitely right – this restaurant is a wonderful example of French life at its best – and long may it remain so.

Follow this link to find out about Caves & Castles Mary Moody Tour

Steve and Judie Burman live in the beautiful Vezere Valley in the Dordogne region of South-West France. Together they run Caves and Castles, specialising in prehistoric Cave Art and medieval Castles Tours. Small groups tours (up to six people) are based at their recently converted farmhouse. Alternatively, they offer non-residential tours for a day or longer.

Professional archaeologist, Steve and his wife Judie love to share their passion for the ‘Cradle of Humanity.’ World famous sites such as Lascaux, the ‘Sistine Chapel of Prehistory’ and Font de Gaume are close by. Coupled with gastronomic meals and superb wines, your Caves & Castles Tour is really special

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

In our last post we provided some background about the markets of Provence. In this post we’ll focus more specifically on what to buy and how to shop at the markets.

What to Buy

The larger markets (Apt, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, St. Remy-de-Provence) have hundreds of sellers, meeting the needs of locals and tourists, especially during the summer months. Here are our suggestions of some of the best offerings at the markets:

Food to eat during your stay: fresh fruits and vegetables—whatever is in season; fresh eggs; mushrooms; cheese (including locally-produced goat cheese); meat, poultry and fish; bread and baked goods; olives, fresh tapenades, and other spreads; nuts; dried sausages.  In the Luberon we love to buy local produce, often direct from the farmers:  the small, sweet melons from Cavaillon, strawberries from Carpentras, cherries from the Calavon valley around Apt, and tomatoes from Bonnieux.

Summer fruit at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Food products to take home:  locally-produced honey in many flavors; jams and other preserves; herbs and spices; olive oil (much of it local); jars of dips and spreads.

Prepared foods for a picnic: rotisserie chicken and other meats, roasted potatoes, asian food, pizza from the pizza trucks, paella, tarts and cakes.  (See our post A Picnic in Provence for more ideas for a picnic lunch from the market.)

Wine from local wineries. (Tastings are probably available!)

A bouquet of flowers to brighten up your rental house or B&B room.

Pottery: dishes, bowls, pitchers, olive oil containers, olive dishes.

Olive wood products: cutting boards, bowls, spreaders, spoons and other utensils.

Artwork: paintings, sketches and photographs, usually sold by the artist.

Handmade jewelry: necklaces, earrings, brooches, beads.  The best thing about buying jewelry is that it takes up very little room in your suitcase.

Fabric products in bright Provençal patterns and colors: tablecloths, napkins, placemats, bread baskets, potholders, dish towels, aprons. (I buy lots of the Jacquard dish towels to take home as gifts during the year.) Measure your table in centimeters before you go, though typically you just need to know the shape (round, oval, square or rectangular) and the number of people the table seats.

Clothes:  tops, dresses, even underwear at a variety of prices.  The women in our groups especially enjoy shopping for scarves, which is a distinctly-French purchase.   If you’ve forgotten something, you can also find “flea market” clothes at very reasonable prices.

Straw baskets and hats of all types and sizes.

Lavender: dried bouquets, oils, and sachets.

Soaps and oils: in a variety of scents.

Flea market finds: hardware and tools; kitchenware and gadgets; perfumes; clothes; socks and shoes; books and music; children’s toys. Sometimes you can find some real deals.

Brocante: A friend once described “brocante” as somewhere between “antiques” and “junk.”  Some markets have brocante sellers, offering a variety of older collectible items, perhaps from grandmother’s attic.  At the famous L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market on Sunday mornings, there’s an entire area of brocante.  You might find something interesting to take home.

How to Shop

Bring a basket or bag to carry your purchases, as you’ll likely accumulate a number of small bags during your morning at the market. There might be a basket in your rental house; if not, buy one at the market. (Then use your new basket as a carryon bag to transport purchases home.)

Take small bills and change. Credit cards are normally not accepted by market sellers. Use 20 euro notes from ATM machines in restaurants and shops, and hold onto smaller notes and coins for the market. The seller will usually give you a register ticket with the total price. If you don’t understand the price or can’t figure out the money, ask the seller to help you pick out the right coins.

Buy what you like when you see it. In the big markets, it it’s usually impossible to find your way back to a particular tablecloth stand after you’ve looked at tablecloths at six other stands all over town.

Speak some French, even if it’s just a few words. You’ll be more respected for your efforts than if you just burst out in English. If you try to speak French (and it will be very clear that you aren’t French), the seller will often respond in English if they can.  Many market sellers do speak some English. It’s also amazing what can be communicated in sign language.

Be polite and respectful. Use the basic French terms of courtesy that hopefully you have learned. Wait until it is your turn to get help and then know what you want. Say “Bonjour Madame” or “Bonjour Monsieur” before placing your order. Smile.  Communicate your order in French or sign language and be sure to say “s’il vous plait.” And then complete your transaction with “Merci beaucoup, Monsieur” and “Au revoir” or perhaps even “Bonne journee.” (Have a good day.)

Be positive, even if you sometimes feel frustrated. And if you have anything negative to say (about the market, the village, the products, the prices, France in general, etc.), hold your thoughts and express them to others in the privacy of your car. room or house. Don’t assume that no one can understand you if you speak English—the likelihood is that someone within earshot will hear you and very possibly take offense.

Be careful about touching food If there are little baskets set among the produce, it’s okay to pick the produce you want. Put it all in the basket and then have it weighed. If there aren’t any baskets, the seller probably doesn’t want you to handle the produce. When it’s your turn, say what you want (or point with a big “s’il vous plait”). The seller will pick the right produce for you, sometimes even asking when you plan to use it so he or she can make the best selection for your needs.

Ask before you rummage through carefully arranged merchandise, like tablecloths. (Ask in sign language if you don’t know the words.) Often the seller will prefer to show you the merchandise.

Be sensitive about negotiating. Negotiating is not really part of the process here like it is in some other countries. Prices are normally clearly marked, sometimes with a quantity discount. If you are buying several of the same item (like six aprons) or if an item is damaged, you can always inquire if a lower price is possible, but don’t push or take offense.

Provence is truly a sensory delight of colors and tastes and scents, and it all seems heightened at the marketplace. What else can fit in that new straw bag? There are so many choices of items uniquely Provence… a bottle of locally-produced olive oil or wine, a few pots of tapenade or honey, a sackcloth bag of herbes de Provence, an assortment of olive oil soaps, a fabric-covered lavender sachet…enjoy shopping for the tastes. aromas and textures of Provence to take back home and savor your memories.

Kathy Wood and her husband Charley lead European Experiences, week-long “slow tours” in some of the most beautiful areas of Europe, including The Luberon Experience in Provence, France. In 2012 they’ll host groups in the Luberon, the Chianti region of Tuscany, and the Salzkammergut region of Austria.

Kathy and Charley have been traveling in Europe for 20 years and love sharing their special places in Europe with other travelers. Read more about Kathy and Charley here.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Alasdair and Barbara have lived full-time in France for some seven years, and they are now in their sixth season of operation with their Hotel Barge theSaint Louis. They come from the west coast of Scotland, and they each have wide-ranging hospitality experience.

The Saint Louis is a 30-metre converted Dutch barge, providing luxurious accommodation for up to six guests. Cruises are by the week, in the Garonne valley between Toulouse and Bordeaux.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

We love shopping at the outdoor markets in Provence. We love the busy, social environment; the interaction with sellers we’ve come to know; the colors, smells and sounds. We love buying fresh seasonal produce and other food to incorporate into our menus for the next few days. We love buying special things to take home, for ourselves and for our friends and family. And we love how the markets change as the seasons and the year progresses. It seems there is always something new and unexpected. We especially relish the opportunity to occasionally find a good deal!

Market Day at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

What to Expect

Most markets in Provence are temporary outdoor markets—kind of traveling shopping malls on the same day each week. Big markets take over the center of town, sprawling in all directions. Small markets are based in the village square. Some sellers have extensive and elaborate booths and displays, some have stores set up inside refrigerated trucks, and sometimes there’s just a folding table. In the town of Uzès (where there’s a large Saturday market) we once saw a wizened elderly woman standing in a doorway selling brussel sprouts from an oversized basket, probably picked the afternoon before from her garden. Often you are buying from the actual farmer, seamstress or artist or members of their family. Typically, sellers have a weekly schedule they follow, rotating to a different market every day. We enjoy seeing sellers we know at different markets. For example, Kim sells colorful, reasonably-priced scarves at Apt on Saturday, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on Sunday, Gordes on Tuesday, St. Remy on Wednesday, Roussillon on Thursday and Lourmarin on Friday. I love bringing the women in my groups to shop with her in Gordes.

Although tourists are drawn to the markets and many stands sell primarily to visitors, the markets are extremely important to locals. The French use mostly fresh food and produce in their cooking, and many people shop for food every day or two. The markets provide easy access to fresh produce, often locally-grown. The markets are also important social centers, a place where residents gather not just for shopping but to see their friends and get caught up on local news.

Types of Markets

Some markets are enormous with hundreds of sellers, sprawling out across the town. These markets typically cater to both locals and tourists. Other markets are very small—just a few sellers providing fresh and convenient food to local residents on a weekly basis.

A few markets are designated as a “marché paysan,” usually held only during the main growing season. These are farmers or peasant markets, specializing in locally-grown produce sold by the producer. The evening market at Velleron (near L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue) is one of the most famous. We visited one July evening to find well over 50 sellers, most selling freshly-picked produce and farm products, mostly sold in bulk. The prices were excellent.

Brocante for sale at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

November through March there are special truffle markets in some towns and villages. The truffle is a black lumpy-looking tuber that grows underground in certain parts of Europe, usually found only with the help of trained dogs or even pigs. These are prized delicacies and very expensive. The biggest truffle market in France is held in Richerenches on Saturday mornings during truffle season.

Where to Go

Almost every town and village in Provence has a market. Although some big towns and cities have a market several times a week or even daily, most villages and towns have a weekly market, always on the same day of the week and usually in the morning.

If you’re visiting for a few days or a full week, we suggest visiting two or three markets, depending on how much you enjoy the experience and like to shop. One market should be very large, someplace like L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Apt, Vaison-la-Romaine or Aix-en-Provence. These markets have hundreds of sellers as well as many permanent shops. You can easily spend an entire morning at these markets and will likely wish you had more timeFor a contrast, you should also visit a smaller village market. This trip may take only 30 minutes. If you’re staying in or near a village, plan to visit the market in your village.

At the Bonnieux market

We also enjoy several mid-sized markets that have 50 to 100 sellers. It’s easier to shop and find your way, and they’re typically less crowded. The market in Gordes (Tuesday) has lots of crafts and artwork, in addition to more-typical market offerings. The market in Lourmarin (Friday) is another mid-sized market we enjoy. Lourmarin has several wonderful cafes and restaurants for lunch after the market.

A product demonstration in Apt

We enjoy the street performers at larger markets, often including a group of drum-playing and noise-making Indians complete with feathered headdresses. A few untethered dogs usually move around the crowd, and there’s an occasional sad-looking beggar. Everyone has their shopping basket and a sense of energy and anticipation.

Some Cautions

Do be careful with your purse or wallet. We’ve never had an incident with our groups, but the markets can be very crowded places. Keep a small amount of money handy so you don’t have to pull out your whole wallet when you’re paying a seller.

We warn our groups about two different sellers we encounter at most markets. The first involves a small cart with adorable baby animals (a baby pig or goat, perhaps a puppy or kitten). The people then try to sell you some sort of lozenge, perhaps creating the impression that you’re helping the baby animals. We are very skeptical about this! The second are cheese sellers with big wheels of mountain cheese, usually luring you in with delicious samples. Be very careful! If you buy a slice of the cheese, you are likely to spend 20 to 30 euro!

When to Go

Most markets are held in the morning, beginning around 9 am and wrapping up between noon and 1 pm. If you’re visiting one of the larger markets, get there as early as possible so you can locate parking reasonably close to the market and get started before the crowd really swells. The crowds can be overwhelming in July and August. Most people probably need a couple of hours to visit one of the big markets. In the larger towns, we suggest focusing on the temporary market stands in the morning as the permanent shops will be available after lunch and even on another day.

Lunch Plans

Part of the fun of market day is a wonderful lunch after the market. If you spot a place that interests you for lunch, we suggest stopping in earlier in the morning to make a reservation for 12 noon or 12:30 pm, especially if your group numbers several people. Lunch places fill up quickly at the end of market day, and you may find yourself trooping from place to place unable to get a table if you don’t have a reservation. If you have a reservation, your group can have an assigned meeting time and place, and can split up to pursue their own interests at the market.

Another lunch option is a picnic after the market, at some beautiful spot in the countryside or back at your rental home or B&B. There are usually several kinds of prepared foods for sale that are perfect a picnic. (See our post A Picnic in Provence for some ideas.)

Enjoy a picnic lunch from the market

Seasonal Differences

We’ve been in Provence in every month of the year, visiting the markets first as tourists and later as residents. As residents we’ve come to the market looking for food, clothes, and varied necessities for our daily life, as well as gifts for friends and family. The markets definitely take on a different personality at different times of year. And we’ve found ourselves experiencing the markets in different ways when we’re shopping as residents vs. shopping as tourists.

Most of the big markets are still large and busy in the colder winter months, focusing mostly on the needs of local residents. The markets get bigger and much more crowded as the tourist season begins. The Apt market was crowded in mid-October and we noticed virtually no difference until about mid-March, when the weather got warmer and the restaurants and cafes set up their outdoor tables. An increasing number of shoppers were clearly tourists, and the size and focus of the market shifted accordingly. In the summer months the Apt market is so big that parking is offered at the old train station on the edge of town and shuttle buses transport people to the market area. Much of the market takes place in several large squares, but the narrow pedestrian streets are often packed with people.

The market in our village of Bonnieux changes much more dramatically during the year. From June into September, Bonnieux has maybe 70 sellers; the activity builds around the end of March and continues into October. During the warmer months, the market fills the shady Place Gambetta mid-way up the village and now extending around the new church at the base of the village. There’s a festive atmosphere, usually accentuated by a man and woman singing cabaret-type songs outside the café. People fill the outdoor terrace of Le Terrail, our favorite village cafe, drinking coffee, listening to the music, and enjoying the view across the valley.

But by early December the Bonnieux market had only six sellers in an almost-deserted market square: the fish truck, cheese man, flower man (who kept his flowers in his van because it was so cold), a man selling farm-raised chickens, a man selling organic bread, and the pizza truck. In the winter, the Bonnieux market is for the residents, making their lives a little more convenient.

(In our next post on July 31 we’ll talk about how to shop in the markets and all the special things you can buy.  Check back to learn more about the Markets of Provence!)

Kathy Wood and her husband Charley lead European Experiences, week-long “slow tours” in some of the most beautiful areas of Europe, including The Luberon Experience in Provence, France. In 2012 they’ll host groups in the Luberon, the Chianti region of Tuscany, and the Salzkammergut region of Austria.

Kathy and Charley have been traveling in Europe for 20 years and love sharing their special places in Europe with other travelers. Read more about Kathy and Charley here.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Having seen the various caves and the varying styles, often visitors feel the urge to draw – and our Livre d’Or (literally Book of Gold – Visitors’ Book) is sometimes chosen as the ‘canvas’. It’s great! We love leafing through our book and the pictures are instant reminders of many happy times. It truly is a treasure house of great memories.

Our season has started early this year and already a family has stayed at Les Rosiers on a self-catering basis and spent days out with Steve. The children, Zoe (10) and Leo (12) were enthralled by the caves – so much so that completely unprompted, Zoe wrote a lovely message in our book on behalf of her family and also added drawings which make it even more special.

We were spending their last evening together and not only did Zoe draw in our Book then, but they had both specially drawn us a picture. What finer way to express how much they had enjoyed themselves? They are certainly pictures we will treasure.

Zoe's Painting

Leo's Painting

The Suppressed Paintings of Cavewomen

We are also sent magazine cartoons from time to time by people who have visited us here. It’s terrific to get an unexpected letter through the post with a cartoon or two tucked inside. We really appreciate the thoughtfulness and again, it brings back happy memoires for us – and obviously the memories have lingered in our guests minds too.

But the most amazing record to date is the graphic journal produced by artist Megan Baehr. She took a Tour with us to research for a graphic novel she’s planning to write and whilst here kept a diary. She’d be curled up on a settee happily drawing at every opportunity – I loved having a peep over her shoulder, she’s very talented. When she returned home, day by day her Travel Journal unfolded starting from when she left home. We avidly watched each day to see the story developing.

Megan Baehr's Vezere Valley Venture

You can see Megan’s journal at www.friedwontons.com.

Then a total surprise arrived in the post – a printed copy of the Journal. Leafing through it is like reliving the Tour! Her powers of observation are incredible and we marvelled at the intricate details she’d picked up both here at Les Rosiers and when out on visits. Again, this is a book we treasure – I wonder if there will be a sequel to it one day! That would be great as it would mean a return visit by Megan – it’s ‘on the cards’ so it’s entirely feasible. Our visitors often do return – whether for another Tour or to rent Les Rosiers again. This year we have two families both of whom are making their 4th return visit.

So having got off to a great start this season, we’re confident it’s going to continue that way, especially with our ‘returners’ coming to stay again.

If you want to know what other visitors think about our Tours and staying at Les Rosiers, see our Visitors Book.

We hope we can look forward to welcoming you here in the Vezere Valley – it’s known as The Land of Painted Caves for very good reasons!

Steve and Judie Burman live in the beautiful Vezere Valley in the Dordogne region of South-West France. Together they run Caves and Castles, specialising in prehistoric Cave Art and medieval Castles Tours. Small groups tours (up to six people) are based at their recently converted farmhouse. Alternatively, they offer non-residential tours for a day or longer.

Professional archaeologist, Steve and his wife Judie love to share their passion for the ‘Cradle of Humanity.’ World famous sites such as Lascaux, the ‘Sistine Chapel of Prehistory’ and Font de Gaume are close by. Coupled with gastronomic meals and superb wines, your Caves & Castles Tour is really special

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.