The Italian Way of Preservation

Gubbio is one of the destinations for our 2012 Arts Sojourn in Umbria. My wife, Barbara and I first explored Gubbio on our own in 2007. We had wanted to visit Gubbio long before this, but somehow its off the beaten path location in northern Umbria necessitated us dropping it from our plans. Apparently many others have passed Gubbio by over the years as well, but its high and set apart situation has had some distinct benefits. Gubbio is said to be one of the best preserved medieval towns in all of northern Italy. The Italian way of preserving and honoring history is clear and evident throughout Gubbio.


As Barbara and I walked along the via dei Consoli, one of the main streets rising through the upper town, we passed a public works sewer project. We noticed there were painstakingly excavated remains of what appeared to be foundation walls below the gaping void in the road surface. Stacked hewn stones of various sizes and configurations had been exposed in the cavity below the water and drain lines. A young woman, who turned out to be the project archeologist, was standing nearby. “Romano?” I asked, in reference to the unearthed stones. “No, medioevale” she replied. Workers were now in the process of carefully cleaning, documenting, and photographing each pile before they could be buried once again and capped with the rounded paving stones that would restore the road surface to its original pattern. The work appeared to be progressing slowly – very slowly.


This is the sort of procedure that must be followed when any antiquity is discovered in any project in all of Italy, whether public or private. Work must stop; archeologists must study; plans must be drawn; every detail noted. History must be preserved and protected at all cost; even the history of medieval stones that will not be seen again until future sewer repairs are necessary. Is this the fastest and most efficient way to expedite construction? Of course not! It is the Italian way.


Matthew Daub is a professional artist and university professor with works in major public and private collections throughout the United States and Europe. He has been leading plein air painting workshops in Italy since 1994. In 1999, Matthew and his wife Barbara formed Arts Sojourn as “a vacation for artists and their friends.” The program is designed to appeal to artists of all levels as well as non-artists who enjoy the company of creative people in a slow travel format.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

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Congratulations Kathy & Charley

Congratulations Kathy & Charley

Blog readers might wonder what this means, but everyone within the Slow Travel Tours group knows.  Earlier this week Kathy revealed to us that The Luberon Experience had been selected for a prestigious National Geographic Award and this seemed the most appropriate way for the rest of us to congratulate them publicly – it was no easy ride achieving this accolade.

National Geographic Traveler Magazine 50 Tours of a Lifetime (photo courtesy of National Geographic)

 

Each year National Geographic hand pick tours from a myriad entries and home in on those they regard as worthy of being included in their ’50 Tours of a Lifetime’ which are featured in their Traveler magazine.  It must have been an agonising wait from Christmas until early April, but then the great news came via email: this year The Luberon Experience is one of the companies to wear this crown.  The 50 selected Tours are world wide and this year’s selection is revealed in the May issue of the Traveler Magazine.

This is how National Geographic describes the Tours they are looking for:

“They offer a short but deep dive into far-flung cultures and transformative experiences. We looked for tours (including volunteer, adventure, family, and small-ship trips) designed for experience, immersion, sustainability, and cultural connection.” and “An antidote to the average”

Obviously Kathy & Charley’s Luberon Experience Tours fit this bill and it’s true to say that all the Tours offered by Slow Travel Tour group members do too.  But to be selected for such an award is irrefutable confirmation that those ‘returners’ are right – a Tour with Kathy & Charley is a life-changing and memorable experience.

This is just one comment from Kathy & Charley’s Travelers’ Feedback Page:

“I felt like a traveler, not a tourist… seeing those things most people do not. Goat farms, family homes, private vineyard tours… they all topped all expectations. I loved the feeling of being a “local”. 

Nick from Massachusetts, USA

Everyone in the Slow Travel Tours group works tremendously hard to put together unique Tours and importantly, Tours are led by the group members – right from the start you deal with the person you will be touring with.  Kathy and Charley have a time proven track record and many ‘returners’ on their tours, what better recommendation can there be? But again, all the members have excellent track records too – take a look at any of the groups’ websites and you’ll find glowing comments from past visitors.

Visitors’ comments are appreciated and cherished; this is just one example from our Visitors Book that you can see on our website:

“There is an old Van Morrison song called “Enlightenment” – this one word that so well describes my 6 days staying in your lovely home – drinking your Pineau! Eating absolutely splendid meals created both by Judie and also by your friends at local restaurants (beef cheeks? Who knew?!) and of course, being chauffeured and guided by archaeologist extraordinaire – Steve!  The caves, the castles – the emotion and enthusiasm you brought with you to each site was truly infectious and will change the way I view our world, our past, as humans. Thank you both so much for enlightening me with this knowledge and your passions. I truly am changed (for the better!) for this adventure. I will be back someday!”         

            Sandy, Colorado, USA, April 2011

Selection is no lottery!  All entries are screened and sifted, checked and rechecked. As Kathy told us “we filled out the extensive questionnaire and made it through to the next round when we were asked to send photos and captions”

That’s a lot of hard work!  I once asked Kathy if she ever slept – she is a major contributor to STT as well as organising and running the Tours with Charley – her days seem to have more hours than mine!  Her answer was “I fortunately need very little sleep”.   I believe it!  She is so committed to everything she is involved with.

Kathy, Charley – we all applaud you.  You run great Tours and this Award substantiates what your previous visitors and we your fellow group members know: you are truly dedicated to what you do and also work incredibly hard to promote and develop your Tours.

It has been suggested that other members of the Group should try for this prestigious award next year.  Having one member of the group recognised in this way is tremendous – if others of us could join you up there, it would be phenomenal!

Watch this space….

In the meantime, again congratulations to you both from all your fellow members of Slow Travel Tours.


Steve and Judie Burman live in the beautiful Vezere Valley in the Dordogne region of South-West France. Together they run Caves and Castles, specialising in prehistoric Cave Art and medieval Castles Tours. Small groups tours (up to six people) are based at their recently converted farmhouse. Alternatively, they offer non-residential tours for a day or longer.

Professional archaeologist, Steve and his wife Judie love to share their passion for the ‘Cradle of Humanity.’ World famous sites such as Lascaux, the ‘Sistine Chapel of Prehistory’ and Font de Gaume are close by. Coupled with gastronomic meals and superb wines, your Caves & Castles Tour is really special

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

 

Posted in Charley Wood, Dordogne, European Travel, Events, France, Kathy Wood, Provence, Slow Travel Tours, Southwest France, Steve and Judie Burman, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Churches of Lucca and the Garfagnana

I’m often asked whether my food and wine tours also include cultural sites and activities. They do. Resembling Rudyard Kipling’s elephant child with a ‘satiable curtiosity’, although I haven’t met my crocodile — yet, I ask ever so many questions and include everything and anything that turns out to be interesting. One tour is based around traditional spinning, dyeing and weaving. Sometimes there’s a concert with music by Puccini, a native son of Lucca. Since I’m posting this on Easter Sunday from a Catholic country, I’ll tell you about some of the churches in Lucca and the Garfagnana that I take my guests to see.

Barga duomo

My all-time favourite is the duomo (cathedral) at Barga on the edge of the Garfagnana. Parts of it date back to 1000 AD.  Inside the hush is palpable. The wordless stones breathe tranquility and peace, and golden light seeps through the alabaster windows.

Alabaster windows

A magnificent marble pulpit stands alongside naive romanesque heads and inlaid figures.

Pulpit

A 3.5 m (11.5 ft) tall mediaeval carved wooden St Christopher with an undersized baby Jesus on his shoulder keeps guard over the whole church from his place in the apse. From the piazza in front of the church, you look over Barga and the Serchio River valley to the craggy Alpi Apuane opposite. Even though I’m not religious, I often go sit in this peaceful haven.

View from Barga duomo of the Alpi Apuane

Lucca has been called the ‘city of a hundred churches’. The Basilica of San Frediano stands out for its mosaic façade, the only one in Lucca.

San Frediano

Mosaic on façade of San Frediano

But what draws me there is one painting, one wooden statue and especially Santa Zita. Zita, a serving girl in a noble household, was a favourite of the family. However, she had a secret. Every evening she sneaked into the kitchen, wrapped the leftover bread in her apron and took it away to give to the poor. The other servants, being jealous, told their master she was stealing. He could hardly believe it. He waited for her one evening and challenged her to open her apron. She was very frightened but did as she was commanded and, by a miracle, in place of the bread, her apron was full of flowers. Her somewhat gruesome mummy, lying in a glass coffin in a side chapel, is redeemed by her blue servant’s dress, crisp white apron and the legend of her charity.

Santa Zita

If there isn’t a good story, I make one up. I’ve invented one about San Michele, in the Roman Forum of Lucca, and the duomo, San Martino. Ranks of decorated columns are stacked up their façades.

San Martino, Lucca

San Michele and Easter market

I like to imagine an annual column competition with the winner getting his (I expect there weren’t any female sculptors then) column added to the row. Maybe the runners up also got theirs up there, or else it would have taken an exceedingly long time to collect so many pillars. Of course I admit this as my own fantasy.

Columns of San Martino

Columns of San Michele

Perhaps this church in Villa Basilica, outside Lucca, with far fewer columns was the trial run for the column competition?

Duomo, Villa Basilica, during festival of paper

There are so many exquisite romanesque churches in the countryside I’m tempted to design a walking tour visiting them along with food and wine producers and restaurants on the route.


Heather Jarman invites you on inspiring culinary tours of life behind the scenes that you won’t find in any guidebook — get to know the food artisans and craftspeople of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Piedmont and Liguria. Come join me and my Italian friends and dip into a lifestyle where lunch is more important than business. Find out more at Sapori e Saperi Adventures and follow Heather’s own adventures on her blog.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

 

 

 

 

Posted in Heather Jarman, Italy, Lucca, Tuscany | 8 Comments