My New Definition of Retirement

It’s funny what a man will think about when he’s going to be a father again… at forty-eight. I was overjoyed and thrilled at the prospect of sharing the pleasures of parenthood with Kathy, whom I’d married just fourteen months before. We were at that wonderful stage where we were still getting to really know each other and now another little person was coming to join this exciting time in our lives.

We were thrilled at the idea of little Kelly’s imminent arrival, and since we were a bit more mature than the average new parent (and I had two older daughters), felt we had solid and reasonable expectations of the challenges and rewards ahead. But being reasonable and solid did nothing to dampen our excitement. We anticipated the moment with pleasure and relished planning our future together.

But occasionally, I’d lapse into a moment of more sober, reflective thought, and do a little math. When our new daughter reached sixteen and began driving, I calculated, I’d be in my mid-sixties. When she graduated college, I’d be… well… well past retirement age. It occurred to me that regardless of age, retirement was going to be something other people did, not me. I could sense the threshold to that sublime stage of life fading away into the distance like some warp in space-time that was impossible to breach. Retirement would require some unthinkable violation of the laws of physics.

Wood family in 1993

Our young family in 1993

I didn’t care! I had a new child to teach softball, to take swimming, to take hiking in the mountains and a thousand other things. And mostly, just to love and enjoy. I certainly wasn’t mourning any loss of opportunity to participate in this bedrock institution of American culture called retirement, I simply wanted to know where I stood without it. I had absolutely no desire to ever retire but what was I going to do? I had just missed being born a Baby Boomer by a few months and now I would watch them toddle off into the sunset, doing whatever that demographic group was supposed to do. No, I was quite happy to stay behind, to bring up the rear, to continue my career of pre-retirement. My modest concern was that I wasn’t definable, my present peer group had no firm boundaries, and I knew of no “Non-retirement for Dummies” guidebook that seemed so available for every other undertaking in life. I was on my own. What did one do at that certain age if not retire? It was expected.

It became a favorite joke of mine when our daughter was born, that I took my dictionary down from the shelf, looked up the word “retirement” and erased it from the page, metaphorically giving expression to my circumstance.

Our little Kelly is now a wonderful young woman in her second year at the University of Chicago and I’ve very reluctantly been forced into that demographic called empty-nesters. Thankfully, I’m still kicking that other demographic down the street like an old tin can. I suppose It could be said that I retired when I left the brokerage business in preparation for our family’s sabbatical abroad, but that turned out to be a red herring, just a change in course.

While living and traveling throughout Europe for fourteen months, the first stirrings of an idea began to take hold of us. We realized that this incredible adventure abroad would eventually end and began to explore ways to see it continue. Why not make it possible for others to enjoy Europe in the same experiential way that we had? Our plans began to take shape as we hosted numerous friends at our rented farmhouse in Provence and enjoyed sharing with them an area we had genuinely grown to love.

That was the genesis of our first tour The Luberon Experience and our European Experiences small group tour business. That was eight years ago. We’ve worked hard and had a fair bit of good luck along the way including getting noticed by USA TODAY and being awarded a Tours of a Lifetime designation by National Geographic Traveler magazine.

Luberon Experience at Domaine Faverot

A perfect day on the Luberon Experience

As I write this, we’re busily preparing for another season of tours in France and England and looking forward to working hundred-hour weeks, hoping to provide our travelers with the best vacation of their lives, and providing me, at last, with the ideal concept of retirement. But that’s only for a few months in the summer. What about the rest of the year when I’m home in the US? The same kind of thinking that gave birth to our tour business soon had me asking myself how I could take some of the enjoyment and excitement of our summers abroad and translate that to the rest of the year and even make that accessible in some degree to our past travelers.

I’ve been a “closet” writer for most of my adult life and have written a regular newspaper column on wine and a feature article for a national magazine. It occurred to me that it would be great fun to write about the places where we tour and have grown to love, extending the pleasure of having been there.

Books by Charley Wood

In my first book, A Chateau in Provence, I’ve tried to capture the flavor of Provence in a light story of mystery and thrills set against the backdrop of the spectacular scenery, cuisine and culture of this Mediterranean part of France.

A Villa in Tuscany picks up just where our tour in Tuscany’s Chianti hills leaves off. Any traveler who has enjoyed our Chianti Experience week will recognize favorite places and perhaps old friends and indulge in a little bit of nail-biting as they cheer on the story’s hero.

Charley WoodI’m nearing the finish line on my next book, A Cottage in the Cotswolds, set in another one of our favorite places in Europe… the beautiful English countryside. It will be published later this summer and will be available—like my first two books—from Amazon in paperback and e-book format.

As with our tours, working on my new writing career—as I now consider it—has been a fascinating experience. I’m self-published and of necessity, have had to learn something of the many facets of taking a book from the kernel of an idea to something I can hold in my hands and happily turn the pages. God willing, I hope to keep leading tours and writing about the fantastic places we visit for a long time.

So for me, “retirement” doesn’t mean “ceasing to work.” It means pursuing different, more flexible, and much more pleasurable ways of working. I’m so fortunate at this point in my life to have two “jobs” that don’t really feel like work.

I’ve even entertained the idea of pulling the old dictionary off the shelf, finding that place where the entry has been erased, and rewriting the definition of “retirement.” I’m pretty busy, though. That will have to wait.



Charley Wood and his wife Kathy lead European Experiences, week-long “slow tours” in some of the most beautiful areas of Europe, including The Luberon Experience in Provence, France. In 2013 they’re hosting groups in the Luberon, the Dordogne in southwest France, and the Cotswolds in English countryside.

In addition to his work with European Experiences, Charley has written two books A Chateau in Provence and A Villa in Tuscany, both available on Amazon. His third book, A Cottage in the Cotswolds, will be published later this year.

Kathy and Charley have been traveling in Europe for over 20 years and love sharing their special places in Europe with other travelers. Read more about Kathy and Charley here.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Posted in Books, Charley Wood, Cotswolds, Kathy Wood, Provence, Retirement, Tuscany | 3 Comments

Seville’s Magical Alcazar

10021205 gardens superbThe Alcazar is a complex of buildings and gardens built in the AD 900s  for the governors left behind by the conquering Moors as they headed east claiming Europe as their own as they went. After the re-conquest, the governmental campus was re-built for the Christian king, Pedro I in the 1300s. It is still in use today. Whenever Spanish royalty comes to Seville for a visit, they stay here.
10021204 more color than I remember at Alhamb interlocking courtyardsWe  work our way through several courtyards, patios with colorful tiled arches, and gardens, never sure whether we’re indoors or outdoors. Bubbling up from several fountains and flowing across the floor in little channels is water designed to cool the area in southern Spain’s hottest days. It’s never difficult to find shade and pools of cool water – these north African invaders obviously knew more about how to keep cool in the desert than we Europeans have figured out even 1100 years later. For example how many places can you think of where even the outdoors is shady, breezy, and never far from at least a little water?
10021204 n kirk reminded of southern italy sure enough sicilian ceramicistWhen we enter the Palacio Gótico, we remark how similar the design of the wall tiles is to tiles we’ve seen in Sicily and around Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Sure enough, we learn that the tiles were made by a ceramicist from Sicily.
Another room, the Chapel of the Casa de la Contratacion houses an exact three 10021203 indians in the dark under marys capefoot replica of one of Columbus’s three ships. On the wall is the first depiction in art of native Americans, shown protected under the arms and long shawl of the Virgin of the Navigators.

10021204 exquisite gilded dome

 

Other rooms feature thick walls and tall ceilings with gold lacey domes.

10021206 baths of dona maria de padilla

 

Underneath one section of the gardens are the Baths of Doña Maria de Padilla. These arched ceilings are works of art that cover the rainwater baths built for King Pedro’s maidens.

10021206 pavilion bubbling fountain just sound is cooling

Just inside the Garden of the Dances is a small stone pavilion with all the typical Moorish features : tall, domed ceiling, open walls, a little bubbling pool with channels over the floor – a very peaceful, cool place to be in the blazing sun. 10021207 patterns from another angle

Throughout the gardens are precisely mathematically perfect symmetrical spaces bounded by hedges and mazes.
What a glorious place – worth spending hours longer than we have today!
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2009 Anne and Kirk ViasThe best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we’re interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We’ve visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe.
Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and the south of France. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with our Music and Markets guests.
While both of us have experience in organizing travel and music groups Kirk’s background is in project management and competitive writing, and Anne is an accomplished pianist with over thirty years of teaching experience, and a travel and food writer specializing in France and Italy.

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Countryside Gems

Afternoon in Northern Lazio

Afternoon in Northern Lazio

One of my favorite areas is the Northern Lazio countryside, which borders the regions of Tuscany and Umbria. It is a lush green agricultural area that soothes the soul, being so richly colored. Everywhere one turns there are rolling green hills, deep brown earth, or dirt hillsides dotted with caves, sheep, wild boar, and sometimes small herds of cattle. There are silver-tipped olive trees in every direction, some planted randomly, others in the neat tidy rows of orchards.  Vineyards are a common sight, seen in all shapes and sizes.  For me, this is what “slow travel” and Slow Travel Tours is all about.

Artichoke harvest

Artichoke harvest

The land is farmed in a variety of ways, but farmed it is. Plots of land in all kinds of configurations, from multiple hectares to tiny micro vegetable gardens. Of course grapes are grown in abundance in this area, as they are all over Italy. And the region recently took up kiwi growing, as a small experiment, since this fruit grows similarly to the vine of the grape.  Lemon trees are planted portably, so that they may be brought inside during the winter frosts. They are less in evidence than places further south, as they require a bit too much care for the cooler climate.

Ready to harvest

Ready to harvest

Caves are much in abundance in here, too, because of the Etruscan influence. Many are natural to the landscape, which has a very porous element. Many were manmade by the Etruscan people who once populated the area, over 3000 years ago, some as old as the Iron Age.  We also came across a small culture, related to the Etruscans called Falisci.  At one time they inhabited the little town of Civita Castellana, some 2000 years ago but where forced out by the Romans, as so often happened in those times.  Farmers are still finding artifacts on their properties, left from these fascinating groups of people. There are several very good museums in the area, one in Orvieto, another in Tarquinia, that tell the Etruscan story quite well. Italian Excursion tours always hit at least one per trip, and sometimes more, if the group is interested.

copy of Etruscan relic

copy of Etruscan relic

The Lazio countryside is also riddled with charming little villages, some nestled in valleys, others elevated on hilltops. And in these villages are some of the most amazing, family owned trattorias, pizzerias, ristorantes you will ever encounter. If you are a traveler who enjoys Italy’s love affair with food, you will delight in discovering some of these little gems.

Fresh and ready for the table!

Fresh and ready for the table!

One such place is located in Celleno, which is midway between Bagnoregio and Viterbo, called Mediterranea. Pizza is their specialty, but do try their seafood antipasti ……… mmmmm!  Mussels or large shrimp piled high. Great prices, too. The ambience is created by the locals who dine there, and we noticed we were the only tourists, every time we ate there. (Yes, we went back several times!).  As with so many small, family-run trattoria’s, this one is the ground floor of the family home.

Necropolis, one of many

Necropolis, one of many

Il Poderetto is outside Castel Giorgio, on a small country road. If they forget to put out the sign and you haven’t been there before, it’s impossible to find. If you don’t mind walking through their backyard and in the kitchen door to get to the dining room, you will be very pleased by the offering of domestic and wild meats, roasted to perfection. Mama cooks what the local hunters bring her that day; boar, quail, duck and papa tends the fire, waits tables when he’s not on duty as a carabiniere and entertains.  In warm weather it’s delightful to eat in the backyard at long picnic tables, near the woodpile.

Another incredible meal!

Another incredible meal!

These are some of the wonders of northern Lazio.  Just wanted to whet your appetite.

Tanti Saluti, Cheryl



Cheryl has been traveling to Europe, particularly Italy, for more than fourteen years. Her interest in Italy, its history, art and rich culture led her to purchase property near Orvieto, allowing her to spend more time there. Cheryl’s exploration of Italy include the regions of Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, as well as the areas around Venice and south towards Sorrento. She continues to travel into Italy’s less traveled regions, and enjoys sharing her discoveries with others. Relaxed, leisurely tours are her specialty with an emphasis on the comfort of her guests.

Cheryl spends the rest of her time near the beach in San Diego, cavorting with her two small grandchildren. She’s an avid reader, health advocate and community volunteer. Her career as a social worker brings an understanding of people’s needs to the tour business.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

Posted in Bagnoregio, Cheryl Alexander, Civita, Food, Italy, Lazio, Orvieto, Slow Travel Tours, Tuscany, Umbria, Wine | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment