Friuli-Venezia Giulia – White wines, great food, art, handicraft, history

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It was a long time that we wanted our tour in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a land famous for its great white wines but also with a rich recent history especially regarding the first and the second world wars that the population suffered very much, being a border region.
We had several beautiful surprises discovering this hidden territory, different from any other region, made of hard workers and warm people.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia lies between the Adriatic Sea and the Alps, a land that boasts a surprising variety of natural and urban environments, rich in unique traditions, languages and flavours which originate from the Region’s peculiar position, at the crossroads between different worlds.

Our discovery of Friuli starts in Udine, its historical capital.

Strolling along Via Mercato Vecchio, the ancient merchants’ street, you find lots of elegant shops under the arcades. Several bar and osteria entice you with their warm atmosphere at aperitif time. You cannot start your evening without a glass of “Friulano” – known as “Tocai” until 2008 – an excellent local dry white wine.

Then Cividale, in the area of Colli Orientali, one of the regional DOC wine areas, few kilometres from the Slovenian border. Cividale is a charming little town on the banks of the river Natisone, known for its historical and artistic beauties but also for fine wines produced in the surrounding hills. Devil’s bridge is the town’s emblem. Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Refosco, Pignolo and Picolit, a “meditation” wine produced in small quantities, are some of those precious wines.

A visit to the Collio, a world known DOC wine area that extends on both sides of the border between Italy and Slovenia, is a beautiful discovery but overall it is a treat a wine tasting at a small winery family owned.

Interesting visit to the town of Gorizia, divided by a wall in 1947 to mark the border between Italy and Jugoslavia and so between western and eastern Europe: at that time Italy feared that Gorizia could become the entry point of a Soviet invasion.

 

Trieste and “Carso” – another DOC area of the Venezia Giulia – are other important and amazing places to visit, that include as well Castello di Miramare and Sentiero Rilke.

The capital of Friuli is Trieste. Shaped by over 500 years of Austrian domination.

Trieste has the most beautiful Italian square overlooking the sea, rich and elegant 18th and 19th century buildings, Roman ruins, elegant café. Trieste became the most important seaport of the Austrian monarchy and thus a cosmopolitan city. Local cuisine offers a wide choice of dishes deriving from both the Mediterranean and Central Europe and the best coffee you can find in Italy.

Spilimbergo, a quiet little town of medieval origins awaits us with its world famous mosaic school, not only an exhibition of precious and astonishing mosaic artworks but also a place where you can see students from all the world at work and learn how this ancient form of art is made and how it has developed over the last century.

On the left bank of the river Tagliamento, along the slopes of a hill lies San Daniele del Friuli home to the world famous San Daniele ham. You cannot leave Friuli without tasting this delicacy by the producers.

Later a visit to Venzone, chosen as Italy’s most beautiful village in the 2017.

You cannot miss a visit to the mosaics of Aquileia. Close by there is Palmanova, a star-shaped fortress town built by the Venetians to defend their mainland possessions against the Turks and the Austrians and Aquileia.

Eventually, Grado a charming town on the sea, once a small fishermen’s village: the best place for a fish dinner!

Here is “our” Friuli.

 

Marcello and Raffaella Tori invite you to come and taste Italy in an authentic, unclose, and personal way. Everything is arranged, from food and wine tastings to cooking lessons, walks in the countryside and meanders through beautiful villages. Marcello and Raffaella live in Bologna and have over 20 years of experience working with people just like you who want to taste all Italy has to offer. Their unique experiences are enduring in their simplicity and authenticity. Join us for a day trip or a 4-7 day tour and taste and see amazing Italy through the eyes of Marcello and Raffaella. What are you waiting for? Come and Taste Our Italy! Find our more at bluone.com and follow us on BluoneCookingWineToursItaly/.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beguiling Bruges

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Anne & Kirk Woodyard – Music and Markets Tours

My vote for Europe’s most romantic town? It’s gotta be Bruges, a lost-in-time canal-laced charmer an hour from Brussels.It’s one of the day trips on our Amsterdam and Flemish Treasures tour each August, and we took a couple of days before our spring tours in Provence to enjoy it again. The first time we visited was on a Valentine’s Day weekend in the ’90s, and we stayed right in the middle of Bruges’ most photographed spot, above, at a delightfully shabby hotel,  Bourgondisch Cruyce, that has since been renovated into a gorgeous 4 star luxe property.
This time we’ve checked into yet another lovely lodging to recommend, the Karel de Stoute, former home of a prince of the same name. One of his medieval towers is now our bathroom! Located in a part of town that we’ve never before explored, with a canal, of course, flowing nearby, it’s a delightful boutique hotel with the most fabulous breakfast buffet…tables laden with fresh fruit, homemade pastries and cakes, and anything else you’d want for a filling delicious breakfast.
So what caused this town to hibernate for over three-hundred years, thus retaining its medieval elegance?
Having become wealthy through trading, with an essential outlet to the sea, the River Zwin, Bruges’ fortunes drastically changed when the river silted up in the 16th century. It was not until it was rediscovered by English and French Romantics in the 19th century that Bruges’ charms were uncovered…and today it’s the most popular tourist destination in Belgium!
It’s a short walk from our hotel to the main squares, the Markt and the Burg. This trip we just look at the neck-craning Belfry on the Markt Square – last time we climbed the 366 steps to the top for a great view. The green stall selling frites at the base has been there forever – and their not-french-fries (yes, french fries really came from Belgium, not France!) are worthy of the always-long line of customers. Step-gabled buildings line up along the square – especially pretty when the lights twinkle on at dusk.A short walk takes us to the Burg, with a lavish Stadhuis (town hall) and tucked into a corner, the Basilica of the holy Blood, its entrance guarded by gilded statues. Climb the stairs inside to the Upper Chapel, built and lavishly frescoed in the 12th century. With a unique bowling-ball shaped pulpit and vivid stained glass windows, it’s well worth a pause.Ready for a pause of another kind, we follow our noses to a fragrant waffle shop and enjoy one of Belgium’s signature dishes – yum!

2018 is a year for the Contemporary Art and Architecture Triennale, from May 5 to June 18, with a theme of Liquid City, and what fun it is to spot the art along the canals!

Several installations are actual playgrounds –we’re careful not to fall in as we saw one man do as he stepped back for a photo of these billowing orange shapes!

The contrast of super-modern with intricate medieval architecture is exhilarating – and the perfect weather adds to the pleasure!
Wandering along canals, down narrow lanes with homes garlanded with wisteria, through churchyards hemmed with espaliered fruit trees, til we find a favorite corner from years ago, we make our way to Minnewater Park, not far from the train station. The adjacent Begihnhof, founded in 1245, is one of Bruges’ most charming locations (especially earlier in the spring when the lawn is covered with daffodils!). Rows of small white houses originally built for lay sisters circle the lawn, and a spirit of peace enfolds the area.
We complete our day with another stroll as dusk falls – at all hours Bruges is a delight!

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The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we’re interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive.
We’ve visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with our Music and Markets guests.
Between our music-related travels, we split our time between our homes near Washington DC and the south of France.
While both of us have experience in organizing travel and music groups Kirk’s background is in project management and competitive writing, and Anne is an accomplished pianist with over thirty years of teaching experience, and a travel and food writer specializing in France and Italy.

Driving in Italy

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We just turned our brand-new Alfa Romeo Giulia in at Pisa Airport. Perhaps some of you have been planning an Italian vacation and are contemplating whether or not to rent a car. Driving in Italy is (mostly) not difficult and there’s no reason to be intimidated, but there are several things to consider before taking the plunge.

The first question I would ask is “Do you really need a car?” Often the answer is “No.” We use public transportation whenever possible. In some rural areas this may not be practical, but in most cities a car is a liability and not an asset. You’ll have to figure out where to park, which can be an expensive proposition, and beyond that you may have to deal with less-than-patient drivers, unfamiliar traffic laws, as well as the dreaded ZTLs (more on that in just a moment).

ZTL in Montepulciano

 

If you do decide to drive you’ll need an IDP – an International Driving Permit. In my opinion this is an absolutely useless document that contains a translation of your license, but if you should happen to be stopped for another infraction the Italian law enforcement agency will want to see it. Your rental car company may, or may not ask for it as well.

Before you purchase additional insurance for your rental car you may want to check with your credit card company, personal insurance, or an agency such as AAA if you’re a member. You may already have extra coverage, and it’s good to know before you pay for something you don’t need.

Familiarize yourself with Italian traffic signs and laws before your trip. A speeding ticket or ZTL infraction can considerably add to the cost of your vacation!

If you’re not familiar with the term, a ZTL is a zone that is limited to local resident travel. Posted traffic cameras photograph the plates of cars entering the ZTL. If you do not have the proper permit, your rental car company will receive notice of the infraction and you will have to pay a fine, which can be quite hefty. Do you really have to pay it? Yes you do!! I’m posting a link to an excellent explanation from At Home In Tuscany.

http://www.athomeintuscany.org/2011/10/15/pisa-ztl-limited-traffic-zone/

I’ve heard horror stories of unsuspecting foreigners racking up many hundreds of euros in fines circling through the same ZTL over and over again looking for their hotel or parking lot. They receive their notice many months after the infraction. Ignorance of Italian law is not an excuse. It’s our responsibility to understand local laws and traffic signs.

My advice: do your homework first! Find out where the ZTLs are by Googling the city or town you will be visiting, and make sure you contact your hotel or apartment owner in advance if a permit must be issued.

The same applies to speed limits. Years ago speed limits were rarely enforced in Italy, but that is no longer the case. The Italian authorities have discovered what Americans have long known: ticketing speeders is a great source of revenue. Unless posted otherwise, speed limits are 130kph (80 mph) on the autostrada, 110kph (68mph) on non-major highways, and 90kph (56mph) on local roads. Speed cameras on the Autostrada system are clearly marked, but there are also some stretches that are timed between tolls – the Tutor system. If you’ve gone too fast you’ll be fined. We’ve seen even small towns with fixed radar cameras alongside the road. Locals in the know are aware – tourists are not, so be careful if you’ve got a heavy right foot! Here are a couple of links that may help you recognize the speed traps:

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/driving/traffic_cameras_speeding.htm

https://italychronicles.com/speed-cameras-in-italy/

There’s an excellent blog from Italy Beyond The Obvious that’s full of good info for driving on the Autostrada. I urge you to check it out. They also have an e-book you can download for free from their website.

A few final thoughts: Keep to the right except when passing!!! Unlike in the US, Italians are very serious about lane discipline. Don’t be offended if a faster driver gets right on your rear bumper. It’s just the way they do things. Hopefully you’ll already be out of the way. Pay attention and use your turn signals and your Italian driving experience should be just fine.

Matthew and Barbara DaubMatthew Daub is a professional artist and university professor with works in major public and private collections throughout the United States and Europe. He has been leading plein air painting workshops in Italy since 1994.

In 1999, Matthew and his wife Barbara formed Arts Sojourn as “a vacation for artists and their friends.” The program is designed to appeal to artists of all levels as well as non-artists who enjoy the company of creative people in a slow travel format.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.