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The Road Less Traveled

Slow Travel Tours Posted on June 6, 2023 by Sue AranJune 6, 2023  
The Basque Country
Biarritz, France

Biarritz, France

On the road less traveled in the South of France you’ll find an unspoiled paradise called Euskal Herria, the Basque Country. Most people ignore the most southwestern corner of the hexagon, preferring instead to designate the south of France as either the Dordogne, or the Provence-Alpes-CĂ´te d’Azur. The Basque Country is far enough off the beaten path to retain its unique identity, yet established enough to accommodate travelers. The Basque Country is one of Europe’s oldest cultures. It encompasses the region located in northern Spain, and southern France, on the Atlantic’s Bay of Biscay at the western end of the Pyrenees mountain range.The only pause in the region’s tranquility are the many festivals and convivial farmers’ markets.

Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de Luz

History

The Basque Country is a cross-cultural region straddling both France and Spain that has a very distinctive culture including its own language, customs, festivals and music. The first known inhabitants of the Basque Country date from the Paleolithic period approximately 200,000 years ago. The Celts traversed this area leaving many dolmans scattered throughout the Pyrenees, as well as possible remnants of their language. They were followed by the Romans until the fall of their empire, then the Vascons, (Vasconia later became Gascony) the Vikings, Franks and the Moors, Muslims who invaded Spain and parts of France in A.D. 711, in the very early days of Islam. From A.D. 824, the Basque Country was part of the Kingdom of Navarre, a medieval state ruled over by a series of monarchs. In 1515, much of Navarre was annexed to the Crown of Castile and became part of what would become modern Spain. The French Basque Country originally belonged to Eleanor of Aquitaine and was part of what was considered England’s first colony after she married Henry II of England. until the Hundred Years War when the region was formally returned to France.

Labastide Clairence

Labastide Clairence

Architecture and Gardens

Although different building styles exist with features specific to each region, most most Basque architecture shares a common core design. The extea, Basque house, is much more than a simple dwelling place. The house was, and still is, the axis from which life revolves. The typical Basque houses are white with dark red, dark green or dark blue half-timbering with matching shutters, and terra-cotta red roof tiles. The green represents Hope, the red Liberty, and the white Faith. Although each house is different, they give an overall coherence to the region. Lush gardens, some wild and others formal, like the André Le Nôtre inspired classic plan at the Villa Arnaga, blend into the verdant landscape with ease.

Villa Arnaga

Villa Arnaga, Cambo-les-Bains

Gastronomy

The Basque Country is a fertile territory with a renowned gastronomy. Its gourmet treasures include Espelette Peppers, Bayonne Ham and Chocolate, seafood from the Atlantic and river fish such as trout, wild salmon, sardines, tuna, cod, and anchovies. Basque Sheep cheeses, including the famous Ossau Iraty, are stars of the Soule valley’s summer pastures, along with Black Cherries, Cider, and Irouleguy wine, the only Basque wine benefitting from the AOC certification.

Basque Paella

Basque Paella

Nature

The landscape of the Basque Country is characterized by breathtaking coastal vistas, and tranquil farms. The valleys are criss-crossed by rivers and streams, dotted with cream-colored cows, equestrian farms, and tufted white sheep. Wooded copses, folded into the landscape often conceal a multitude of birds and wildlife. With few towns or villages to interrupt a leisurely ride, the countryside is delightful to drive or walk through. The fan of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route culminates in the Basque village of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before heading over the Pyrenees Mountains.

St. Jean Pied de Port

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

It almost seems that time has passed by the other side of France. It’s time to discover a real gem. 

Sue Aran Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France. She is the owner of French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group, slow travel tours into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Provence and beyond. She writes a monthly blog about her life in France and is a contributor to Bonjour Paris and France Today magazines.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France, England and other European countries.

 

Posted in Slow Travel Tours | Tagged Andre Le Notre, Basque Country, Bay of Biscay, Pays Basque, Saint Jean de Luz, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Santiago de Compostella, The Basque Country, Villa Arnaga | Leave a reply

How To Plan a Fabulous Wine Vacation In Poland

Slow Travel Tours Posted on May 30, 2023 by Sarna RoseMay 30, 2023  
Wooden wine barrels at Turnau Vineyard in Poland

We’ve just wrapped up a small-group food and wine tour in Szczecin and West Pomerania region of Poland on the Baltic Sea coast. All guests on this tour were very excited that touring and wine tasting at Winnica Turnau – Turnau Vineyard was included on the itinerary. Many had no idea, that in the region of Poland so far north-west, there would be any wine produced! But it so happens, that Turnau Vineyard not only produces top Polish wines but is also the largest vineyard in Poland with 34 hectares – 84 acres total land area.

West Pomerania region of Poland vineyards

West Pomerania region of Poland vineyards

Turnau Vineyard wines

Turnau Vineyard wines

Currently in Poland, in just about every region, there are vineyards growing many different varieties of grapes, making award-winning wines and welcoming enotourists! At present we offer five distinct wine tours into four regions of Poland: Lower Silesia, Subcarpathia, Lesser Poland and Lubuskie and now are also planning on including West Pomerania region!

Vineyards in Poland 2023

Vineyards in Poland 2023

West Pomeranian vineyards are famous for the cultivation of grapes known as hybrids, which were created as a result of conscious human intervention in order to make them resistant to low temperatures and various diseases. Such strains include Solaris, popular in Poland, as well as Hibernal, Johanniter, Regent, Rondo, Seyval Blanc and Cabernet Cortis. In addition to the aforementioned hybrids, vitis vinifera strains such as Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir also perform well.

Touring Turnau Vineyard in West Pomerania region of Poland

Visiting Turnau Vineyard in West Pomerania region of Poland

Thanks to its unique microclimate, Western Pomerania is a place with great enotourism potential, the exploration of which can become an unforgettable adventure, combining visiting vineyards and meeting the winemakers while experiencing the beauty of their surroundings.

The following vineyards are members of The West Pomerania Vineyards Association and are worth visiting:

Winnica Turnau

Founded: 2010

Acreage: 34 ha

This is the largest vineyard in Poland. It is located in the village of Baniewice, 50 km south of Szczecin.

Winnice Kojder

Founder: 2015

Acreage: 8 ha

These vineyards are located in Babinek in the Bielice commune, not far from Szczecin.

Winnica Sydonia

Founded: 2013

Acreage: 2 ha

The vineyard is located on the border of the Szczecin Lowlands and the Pomeranian Lake District in the village of Trzebiatiow.

Winnica Palac Rajkowo

Founded: 2016

Acreage: 4.2 ha

This vineyard in the village of Smolecin is one of the closest vineyards to the city of Szczecin.

Winnica Wine & Tennis

Founded: 2020

Acreage: 0.5 ha

Wine meets sport in the Wine & Tennis Vineyard in West Pomerania.

Winnica Darlowo

Founded: 2008

Acreage: 2 ha

This vineyard is located close to the Baltic Sea. It is located in Darlowo, surrounded by forests and fields.

Winnica Amber

Founded: 2019

Acreage: 0.5 ha

This vineyard is located in Malechowo near Koszalin, near the Natura 2000 area and the Grabowa River valley.

Enjoying Turnau Vineyard wine during wine tasting

Enjoying Turnau Vineyard wine during wine tasting

Delicious local cheeses, meats, breads and more at Turnau Vineyard

Guests enjoyed delicious local cheeses, meats, breads and more at Turnau Vineyard

Wine Tasting at Turnau Vineyard

Wine Tasting at Turnau Vineyard

Turnau Vineyard Classique Brut sparkling wine

Turnau Vineyard Classique Brut sparkling wine

We’re very excited about offering custom, week-long exclusive wine vacation in West Pomerania region for any private small-group or party. Another option is to join us on a culinary vacation in Szczecin and West Pomerania we’ve just completed which includes a visit to Turnau Vineyard, two cooking workshops with a local Szczecin chef and cultural exploration.

See you in beautiful Poland 🙂

Cheers! – Na zdrowie!  

Malgorzata (Sarna) Rose, is a native of Poland. Poland Culinary Vacations grew out of her love and passion for travel and everything Polish, including fine Polish cuisine, eventually blossoming into a first-class culinary travel company. While growing up in Poland, she experienced the great joy of cooking with family and friends. Using her grandmothers' recipes and fresh ingredients from their gardens, they prepared food for weddings, parties, and traditional holidays. Now, through Poland Culinary Vacations, she wants to share that experience with you, and show you the best of everyday Polish living: the special people and their hospitality, and the heritage and traditions unique to each region. Only a native can help you discover and fully experience the authentic Poland!

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.
Posted in European Travel, Experiences on the Sea, Food, Gastronomic meal, Holidays in Europe, Malgorzata "Sarna" Rose, Poland, Poland Culinary Tours, Polish wine, Polish wine, Sarna Rose, Slow Travel Tours, Wine | Tagged food and wine tours, food vacation, Poland, poland tours, poland travel, poland vacation, Polish Food, Polish vineyards, polish wine, Polish wine tasting, Polish wine tours, szczecin, visit poland, West Pomerania, Western Pomerania, wine tours, wine vacation | Leave a reply

The Magic of Mont Saint-Michel

Slow Travel Tours Posted on May 24, 2023 by Kathy WoodMay 24, 2023  

What is the magic of Mont Saint-Michel?

I have a flashback to my high-school French class. A poster of this French island hung on the wall near my desk, inspiring my first dreams of France. Even then, when travel to France was just still far in my future, I longed to visit Mont Saint-Michel.

I finally made it to Mont Saint-Michel about 30 years later. Our family spent a week in Normandy in mid-June 2006, based about two hours away in the pretty town of Honfleur, and we made my long-awaited day trip to Mont Saint-Michel.

Sadly, the only magical moment was when we first spotted the island, topped by its abbey, from a vantage point along the coast. Once we arrived at the base of the island and began our climb up the crowded street lined with tourist shops and eating places, there was no magic at all. Our timing was all wrong! We had arrived at the same time as all the other day trippers. There was a wait of more than an hour to enter the abbey, so we didn’t even try.

The Magical Allure of Mont Saint-Michel

Mont Saint-Michel is a tidal island, just 17 acres, located about half a mile off the coast of northwest France. A monastery was founded here in the 8th century and the abbey church constructed at the top of the island beginning in the 11th century. Mont Saint-Michel became a major pilgrimage site and centuries later, a tourist destination. Mont Saint-Michel and its bay were named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.

In the mid 1800’s over 1,000 people lived on the island, but today the population is less than 30. A small community of monks and nuns now live at the abbey.

About three million people a year visit Mont Saint-Michel, drawn to the magic from all over the world, most coming just for the day.

Experiencing the Magic at Mont Saint-Michel

But now flash forward to 2023 and our newest European Experience: The Normandy Experience. Our groups base for seven nights in the medieval town of Bayeux and either start or end with a night at Mont St. Michel.

We stay on the mainland, just across the causeway, where we can savor the views.

We visit the island in the late afternoon, when most of the day-trippers have left for the day. Last week the nuns and monks were gathering for evening vespers as we admired the ancient church. As we passed through the abbey, the staff closed each set of doors behind us for the night.

After dinner many of us stayed out to watch the sunset over the bay.

Photo by Drew Fedorka (May 2023)

And others were up early the next day to see the morning skies.

The early-risers enjoyed a special morning walk on the sandy paths in the salt marsh meadows. It was a quiet time at Mont Saint-Michel, just a few other people out, walking or on bikes.

Early-morning walk (May 2023)

We appreciated the wildflowers, the sea birds, the sheep who grazed freely on the salty grasses, and of course the views.

sheep grazing in front of island

May 2023


This is the magic of Mont Saint-Michel… this is what I dreamed of experiencing all those years ago! And what a joy now to share this experience with others.


We’re here in Normandy with our first of two groups in 2023. We’ll return with two groups in 2024: April 30 – May 8 (first night at Mont Saint-Michel) and May 8 – 16 (last night at Mont Saint-Michel). This is a trip with many special moments in historic and beautiful Normandy, including the magic of Mont Saint-Michel.

Learn more about our Normandy Experience trip here… we’d love to share the magic with you!

Read about other magical moments on European Experiences trips:

Experiences by the Sea
Lavender in the Cotswolds
Poppies in Provence
Magical Christmas Experiences in 2022

 
Kathy and Charley WoodKathy and Charley Wood founded European Experiences in 2006, offering week-long “slow tours” in some of the most beautiful areas of Europe. Their trips include The Luberon Experience in Provence, France, named one of the top 50 tours in the world by National Geographic Traveler magazine.

Kathy has personally hosted over 130 Experience groups. She hosts Experience weeks in the Luberon, the Chianti region of Tuscany, Puglia, Alsace, the Dordogne, the Cotswolds, and Normandy. Charley is now mostly retired but continues to co-host The Cornwall Experience and our Christmas trips with Kathy every year.

Kathy has been traveling in Europe for 30+ years and loves sharing her special places in Europe with other travelers. The Woods have a second home in their beloved village of Bonnieux in the Luberon. Read more about Kathy and Charley here.

Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.
 
Posted in European Experiences, France, Kathy Wood, Kelly Wood, Mont Saint-Michel, Normandy, Slow Travel Tours | Leave a reply

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