You must have a reason for going to D’Artagnan Country in the Gers, a need to glimpse the past through the present and a desire to imagine you are traveling back to another time. As you drive through this remote, south western French countryside, down narrow plane tree lined allées past villages shrouded in mystery, you’ll sense the area looks much as it did during the time of one of its most renowned heros, D’Artagnan. He was not just the fictionalized character from the Alexandre Dumas novels, but a real person by the name of Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore D’Artagnan: a valiant soldier who became Captain of the Musketeers and was answerable only to the Sun King, himself, Louis IV.

After you’ve rented your car in Toulouse and branched off the ring road, périphérique ,around the city to the N-124 heading west towards Auch, your adventure to find the home of one of France’s favorite sons has begun. White clouds languish in deep blue skies and velvet green rolling fields stretch to the horizon. Like a breath of fresh air you have entered the paradisiac Gers, the deep French countryside, la France profonde, a place most French people dream of retiring to. Isolated from main highways and train lines, the Gers is the most rural, least industrialized department and the Gersois, the longest living population of any in France.

Instead of the old two lane road, a brand new highway will hasten your way to Auch,  the capital of the Gers, in less than 45 minutes. Auch is a pleasant, though not terribly charming city perched above the Gers River. It has no market economy to speak of except farming and government and the same population mix since the 14th century. It cathedral, Cathédral Sainte Marie, in the Place de la République was the last to be built in France, and if you have the time to stop, its stained glass windows rival some of the most beautiful ones anywhere in the world. Leading down from the apse of the cathedral is the Monumental Stair, built in the 1860’s. Some 370 steps lead down to a landing with a bronze statue of D’Artagnan.

Leaving Auch, particularly if you’re taking this drive in the months of July and August, Elysian fields of Van Gogh sunflowers stretch to the horizon as far as the eye can see, blinding in their magnificence and ability to enchant.  You’ll be heading further west on the N-124 traveling through the village of Vic-Fezensac, whose Tempo Latino Salsa Festival is legendary for wild dancing in the streets till all hours of the morning.  Just outside of the village you’ll turn south to the D-37 towards Lupiac, the birthplace of D’Artagnan.

D’Artagnan was born in Lupiac in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan.   In the 1630’s he traveled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers, living a life of daring and espionage. In 1655 he became Captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was promoted to governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, Louis IV returned him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch war where he died at the siege of Maastricht in 1673.  In the center of the village you’ll find the Musée D’Artagnan housed in the Chapelle Notre Dame, dedicated to his life and legend with an audio presentation in English. Charles de Batz de Castelmore, otherwise known as D’Artagnan, personifies the stereotypical hotheaded Gersois of  the elder Alexandre Dumas’s eponymous Musketeers novels. The surrounding area is still a hot bed of militant factions making news dumping potatoes or manure across highways, or throwing eggs at politicians in protest.

Definitely worth another 10 minute drive south on the D-102 you’ll pass the Chateau de Castelmore, D’Artagnan’s house (now privately owned) and arrive at the village of Aignan.  Aignan is one of the loveliest villages in the Gers and the original seat of the Counts of Armagnac. Aignan was almost destroyed by the Black Prince in 1355, but retains its 12th century church and arcaded square.  Aignan offers 2 vide-greniers (flea markets) during the summer, one of the best kept secrets of the area.  Browse among the stalls for silver and lace or relax at an outside cafe for a cup of delicious organic coffee and freshly baked croissant.  Your mouth will water at the memory.

Since the Gers is also the home of Armagnac production in France, hand made and produced by local distilleries, you’ll want to throw caution to the wind and stop for a tasting of the elixir of the gods on your way back to Toulouse. Armagnac is the oldest eau-de-vie distilled from grapes in the world.  Rumor has it that one of the local producers stores his Armagnac in 4 great oak barrels called Athos, Porthos, Aramis and D’Artagnan. If you’re lucky enough to find this particular distillery raise a glass to the famed D’Artagnan, “One for all and all for one!”  You’ve now discovered the Pays D’Artagnan, D’Artagnan’s Country. A votre santé….   

 

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France. She is the owner of French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group, slow travel tours into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Provence and beyond. She writes a monthly blog about her life in France and is a contributor to Bonjour Paris and France Today magazines. Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France, England and other European countries.