We’re excited to introduce our new Inside Lyon tour in 2025. Today’s post is from Drew Fedorka, a key member of the European Experiences team. Drew recently received his PhD in French History from New York University and will be leading our new Inside Lyon tour beginning in 2025. In this post Drew shares how his love of Lyon developed and introduces several of the unique aspects of this less-discovered French city.

In case you didn’t know, Lyon is one of France’s great cities.

Admittedly, I may be biased. My first exposure to France came by way of Lyon and, after many return visits both long and short, the city remains one of my favorite destinations. As the designer and leader of our Inside Lyon trip, I want to share what makes it so special.

I first came to Lyon in the summer of 2012 as a student at the Alliance Française language school. At the time, I was an impressionable twenty-one-year-old hoping to improve my French while also finding a little adventure along the way. I had just finished my bachelor’s degree and, having spent the better part of two years writing an honor’s thesis in French history, desperately wanted to visit the country that had been the focus of so much of my academic study. It had been a long time in the making; I had squirreled away money through my final years of college with this very goal in mind and intended to make the most of the experience.

Back in 2012 – I’m thrilled to be in Lyon

I can still recall the excitement of the initial planning phase and the sense of possibility as I pondered the map in early 2012. Among countless options, Lyon quickly emerged as the leading contender. But why? At first glance, it might not seem like an obvious choice. It’s true that Lyon, despite its size, has less name recognition than cities like Paris, Nice, Bordeaux, or Strasbourg. As I saw it, though, that was a point in its favor; fewer tourists, I reasoned, meant more cultural immersion. (My initial impression proved correct – the city felt entirely authentic, operating at a different pace and catering largely to local tastes; even now, more than a decade after my first visit, Lyon remains blissfully unburdened by the problems of overtourism currently affecting other parts of Europe).

As became quickly clear from my initial research, the city’s under-the-radar status was not for lack of amenities. Lyon boasts numerous UNESCO World Heritage sites, including Roman ruins and France’s best-preserved Renaissance-era old town (Vieux Lyon), rich cultural institutions, France’s largest urban park, and a distinct food culture typified by its bouchons. Additionally, as France’s third largest city (with a population of roughly 500,000, behind only Paris and Marseille), it guaranteed the vitality and cultural diversity of a major urban center. A final consideration, as I searched for a place to study, was the geographic location and the ease of reaching other parts of France. Here, too, you’d be hard pressed to find a city better located than Lyon; a two-hour commute in any direction (either by TGV, bus, or train) brought you to some of France’s most varied and compelling places: Paris to the northwest, the sunny climes of Provence to the south, Burgundy to the north, and the Alpine towns of Annecy and Chamonix to the east.

An Exhilarating Experience

With so many boxes checked, I was convinced. I enrolled at the Alliance Française de Lyon, bought my plane tickets, and packed my bags.

On the steps of Fourvière, 2012

I had traveled abroad before, but always within the comfortable and familiar confines of the anglophone world. Lyon was different. It was my first time being thrust into a cultural and linguistic setting for which I was generally unfamiliar.

The experience was nothing short of exhilarating.

Inside Lyon: Walkability

One of my strongest initial impressions, and indeed one of my favorite aspects on return visits, is Lyon’s walkability. The city is remarkably compact, cramming a stunning array of architectural, historical, and natural variety into its roughly nineteen square miles. It’s a place that invites you to wander and rewards curiosity.

In 2012, my host family lived in a stately nineteenth-century apartment along the Rhône River with stunning views of Notre Dame de Fourvière, the hilltop basilica overlooking the city. As I set out from their apartment, I’d amble along the river quay of the Rhône, enjoying the relaxed ambiance of the Lyonnais enjoying after-work aperitifs on the péniches (barges converted into bars and restaurants) or sprawling, impromptu picnics on the grassy waterfront. In the distance, looming along the bank of the river, was the vast Hôtel-Dieu complex, a hospital built between the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries. (In the years since my first visit, the old hospital has been converted into a hotel that features Lyon’s premier rooftop cocktail bar). From there, I would traverse one of the historic bridges spanning the Rhône.

Hôtel-Dieu de Lyon

Each crossing offered its own dramatic panorama. The Passerelle du Collège, a suspension footbridge dating from the 1840s, for instance, bore an inscription detailing the damages sustained by the German occupiers during World War II, a somber reminder of the city’s role as a hive of resistance activity during the war. Nearby, my personal favorite, the Pont Lafayette, an elaborate 1890s Beaux-Arts bridge replete with elegant ironwork and allegorical statuary, offered a stunning reminder of Gallic taste.

Understanding Lyon

The Presque-Île, the slender peninsula that forms the central spine of the city, is where much of the city’s grandeur can be found. The Rue de la République, an impressive pedestrianized thoroughfare that evokes the same splendor of Paris’ famous boulevards, cuts directly through a tangle of narrow streets that evoke a more distant past.

A scenic side street on the Presque-Île

Following the winding side streets, meanwhile, a succession of vibrant city squares – the Place des Terreaux, the Place des Jacobins, the Place des Célestins, and the Place Bellecour – reveal themselves. Each affords explorers a rich tapestry of urban life: lively restaurants and bars teem with activity against the backdrop of historic monuments, fountains, and statues.

The famous Place des Terreaux

From the Presque-Île, the classic neighborhoods of Vieux Lyon and the Croix-Rousse beckon. Aside from the shared presence of traboules – a warren of obscure passageways unique to Lyon – the two couldn’t be more different. Just across the Saône River, Vieux Lyon, with its well-preserved concentration of sixteenth-century buildings and its imposing gothic Cathedral, offers a window into Lyon’s illustrious past. A brief ride up the funicular to the top of Fourvière Hill allows striking panoramic views and a mix of well-preserved Roman ruins as well one of France’s most impressive nineteenth-century basilicas.

A Traboule in Vieux Lyon

On the other side of the river lies the Croix-Rousse, the former heart of France’s artisanal silk production. The neighborhood, once a working-class enclave of canuts (a Lyonnais term for silk workers), has more recently become home to a creative class of students and artists. Former workshops have been transformed into trendy artistic spaces and performance venues. Vibrant street art fosters an exciting, bohemian atmosphere. Reflecting on my time in Lyon, my memory often drifts to the trendy bars and small theaters (the café-théâtres) of the neighborhood. Still, despite the many changes, vestiges of the neighborhood’s artisanal past remain a compelling draw; among my favorite museums in the city are the textile workshops that include live demonstrations of silk manufacturing using the famous Jacquard Loom, a vital nineteenth-century invention.

Demonstrating the Jacquard Loom in the Croix-Rousse

Inside Lyon – The Gastronomic Capital of France

Of course, no discussion of Lyon is complete without reference to food. Famously, Lyon is considered the “gastronomic capital of France,” an audacious boast in a country known for fine food and wine. In recent decades, the city’s reputation for quality cuisine owes above all to its association with France’s most revered chef, Paul Bocuse (1926-2018). Born just north of the city, Bocuse, who maintained three Michelin stars continuously from 1965 until his death, made Lyon the home of his storied restaurant as well as his renowned culinary institute.

A mural of Paul Bocuse outside his namesake market hall

Originally, though, the “gastronomic capital” title stemmed not from the city’s haute cuisine, but, rather, its unrivaled access to high quality food. Writing in 1935, a famous critic noted that Lyon, situated at a vital crossroads of numerous renowned food-producing regions, ensured that the city, perhaps more than anywhere else in France, had full access to the country’s culinary riches. I’ve experienced firsthand the city’s enthusiasm for fresh produce and top-notch ingredients at sprawling outdoor markets along the Quai Saint-Antoine and the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse. My favorite destination, though, is the indoor food market, the Halles Paul Bocuse, where Lyonnais specialties abound, from cheeses (Saint-Marcellin or Cervelle de Canut) and meats (rosette de Lyon saucisson and pâté croute) to the famous pink praline sweets.

Saucisson sec in the Halles Paul Bocuse

Lyon’s most immediate culinary symbol, though, is the homey and convivial bouchon, a type of restaurant revered for its hearty, unpretentious dishes and welcoming atmosphere. It’s in these establishments, some more than a century old, where you’ll find the truest expression of Lyonnais cuisine. Admittedly, much of it isn’t for the faint of heart. Tripe is the centerpiece of several bouchon staples, including my personal favorite, tablier de sapeur (beef tripe marinated in white wine then breaded and fried, served with potatoes and sauce). Another unmissable Lyonnais classic is quenelle, a robust dumpling made of dough and pike served in a rich crayfish sauce.

For the adventurous eater, the tablier de sapeur

If entrails and fish are a little too far outside your comfort zone, rest assured: there are more approachable alternatives. The salade lyonnaise is a hearty salad topped with chunky lardons and an egg, and the poulet au vinaigre (chicken in vinegar sauce) is a tangy local staple.

Salade Lyonnaise, a reliable Lyon staple

Thoroughly enamored by my time in Lyon in 2012, I have made a habit of returning. In 2016, I completed another extended stay, studying French for three months prior to starting a doctoral program in New York. Repeated visits have followed in the years since, and I have had the unique joy of showing my loved ones – my wife and mother – the French city that has long captured my heart and imagination. I was thrilled to have the opportunity to develop this new Inside Lyon tour for European Experiences.

Visiting a bouchon Lyonnais with my mother, Lynn, in early 2020 (just before the pandemic)

As we look forward to 2025, I cannot wait to share Lyon with three groups of travelers. Our new four-night Inside Lyon tour promises to reveal the many unique charms of this beautiful French city.

We’re delighted that Drew is developing and will be leading our new Inside Lyon tour. We’ll offer this trip in May and September 2025. This four-night trip is designed to be combined with one of our seven-night Experience trips in France (The Luberon Experience, The Alsace Experience or The Mediterranean Provence Experience), but it can also be booked as a standalone trip.

In addition to explorations of this very interesting city and memorable meals (of course!), our Inside Lyon tour will include a day trip to the surrounding Beaujolais wine region.

We’ll offer Inside Lyon again in 2026.

Drew Fedorka joined European Experiences in late 2022. As our Vice President of Operations, most of his responsibilities focus on administrative operations stateside, but he's also involved in leading and developing trips. In addition to leading Inside Lyon, he's the co-leader for our trips in Normandy, Alsace, the Perigord, and Cornwall. Born and raised in Connecticut, Drew later moved to Florida, where he attended the University of Central Florida in Orlando and earned a B.A. and an M.A. in History, with special focus on European history. Returning to the northeast, he started a PhD in French history at New York University in 2016. He received his doctorate in 2024. Drew’s passion for European travel started early. When he was seventeen, he participated in a summer college preparation program at Cambridge University. In the years since, he has returned to Europe regularly and for increasingly lengthy stretches. One of the most rewarding aspects of his doctoral studies was the extended periods he spent in France – about two years in total. During that time, he traveled widely across Europe, fostering meaningful connections and gaining a deeper appreciation for the French art de vivre (the “art of living”).