Slow Living in Gascony
Are you familiar with those brief rain bursts that often come unexpectedly, sometimes accompanied by strong winds? In French, they are called giboulées. Giboulées are a particular meteorological phenomenon that mostly occurs in spring and in English it’s often referred to as ‘April showers’, but sometimes they occur in June and in France are referred to as ‘Il pleut comme vache qui pisse’, it’s raining like a cow pissing.
There are things you think about while sitting at a café waiting for the rain to stop that remind you of the past, when the notion of time was much slower. Slower living meant less work, less clutter, and less consumption of same-day shipping items that you don’t really need. The French farmers’ market, le marché, is a microcosm reflecting the way slow living used to be and still can.

The history of the French market goes back to the Middle Ages. In the 12th century, towns were granted charters by the King, allowing them to hold markets on specific days, in central locations, where people from surrounding towns and villages would gather to buy and sell their goods. Since then they have been an integral part of France’s cultural fabric.
Their charm lies not just in the abundance of fresh produce they offer, but in the social connections they foster. French markets shape the rhythm of locals’ lives, reflecting a deep-seated connection to the land, its bounty, and each other. Here people gather to share stories and forge friendships.

French farmers’ markets emphasize local, seasonal produce. Whereas in the US supermarkets offer a selection of produce from around the globe, produce from local farmers in France is seasonal and has spent more time on the vine, on the tree, or in the ground, so you get more nutrients and better flavor. When it comes to fruit and vegetables, the shorter the time and distance from farm to sale, the higher and better the quality and taste.

There are weekly markets, flower markets, Christmas markets, antique markets, fois-gras markets, fish markets, night markets, marché gourmands (specialty markets), and foires (large, traditional markets held annually or bi-annually). While some of these markets were initially intended for the sale of livestock, the modern-day foires are a larger version of the weekly ones, attracting traders from a wider area. They offer an extensive collection of stalls selling clothing, organic produce, crafts, fruits, vegetables, honey, olives, breads, pastries, wine, and more. Some venders sell freshly-made paella, roasted chicken, peppers, potatoes and other dishes ready to take home and enjoy.

As I look across the crowded street at the covered market, marché couvert, customers spill out of its door laden with food baskets and shopping carts. Everyone seems content with their purchases. The covered market concept originated in the 19th century as a way to have a market but avoid the problems that come with unpredictable weather. The first one was built in Nantes, in the Pays de la Loire region. The covered market in Angoulême was built on top of an old fortress which later became a prison. They were also places of shelter, and during World War II. a meeting place for the French resistance.

Go outside, get to know your neighbors, locate the farmers’ market in your area. Vote for subsidies and water access for local farms, not for Big Agriculture. Petition to make neighborhoods safe, walkable, and public transit, free. Step into a less harried, slow living lifestyle. Slow living isn’t about determining how little we can live with – it’s about determining what we can’t live without.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France. She is the owner of French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group, slow travel tours into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Provence and beyond. She writes a monthly blog about her life in France and is a contributor to Bonjour Paris and France Today magazines.Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France, England and other European countries. |
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