Discovering Alsace: A Wine Lover’s Paradise

Nestled in northeastern France, the Alsace wine region is a picturesque tapestry of rolling vineyards, charming villages, and a rich winemaking heritage that dates back centuries. Known for its exceptional white wines, Alsace offers a diverse range of varietals, each expressing the unique terroir of this remarkable region. Our family stayed in Alsace for a month this spring, and each day we explored different villages to experience their wines. As with any wine region, quality varies widely. A week into our trip, we learned about a book that proved quite helpful. Le Guide des meilleurs vins de France 2024 rates the area’s wineries, and we found their recommendations to be spot on. We visited all the highest-rated wineries, plus others that we found through Cellar Tracker forums, and we were delighted to deepen our love for fine Alsatian Reisling. Join me on a journey through some of Alsace’s most esteemed wineries and discover the magic of Alsatian wine.

Louis Sipp: The Quintessential Riesling

Our journey begins in Ribeauvillé at Louis Sipp, renowned for its extraordinary Riesling. Their lovely tasting room is right in the center of town, and features half-timbered construction and the charming painted décor that is typical of the region. This family-run estate epitomizes the elegance and precision of Alsatian winemaking. Their highly knowledgeable hostess offered us a variety of Rieslings from different plots and vintages. The Rieslings here are nothing short of amazing, showcasing a perfect balance of acidity and fruitiness, with a potential to age gracefully. A tasting at Louis Sipp is an essential experience for any Riesling enthusiast.

Hugel: Tradition Meets Charm in Riquewihr

Next, we ventured to the picturesque village of Riquewihr, home to Hugel (see top photo). Located on a charming corner with a big window that invites you in, Hugel’s shop is an irresistible destination for visitors to Riquewihr. This historic winery was founded in 1639 and today, the 13^th generation of Hugels crafts wine following the family tradition. The tasting room offers a delightful selection of wines, including Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Pinot Blanc, that reflect the region’s rich winemaking heritage. They generously shared several high end older vintage Rieslings and Pinot Gris, which opened our eyes to the aging potential of Alsatian Riesling. The shop itself is a treasure trove, where you can explore and taste wines that have been crafted with centuries of expertise.

Domaine de l’Oriel: Conversation and Craftsmanship

In Niedermorschwihr, Domaine de l’Oriel stands out not only for its exceptional wines but also for its talkative and passionate owner, Claude Weinzorn. Each visit here is more than just a tasting; it’s a deep dive into the stories and craftsmanship behind the wines. We learned so much about the Alsatian terroir and the Grand Cru designations that highlight exceptional plots. The lively conversation enhances the experience, making each sip of their amazing wines even more memorable. We were especially entranced by the Crémant d’Alsace Brut, and took home several bottles.

Zind Humbrecht: Precision and Prestige

The top-rated winery in Alsace according to Le Guide, Zind Humbrecht in Turckheim offers tastings by appointment only. Priced between 63 and 100 euros, these tastings are worth every penny. In the cool, atmospheric basement cave, you’ll find large old oak barrels, a testament to the winery’s commitment to traditional methods. Run by two families, Zind Humbrecht boasts a large production with 80 percent of their wines exported, many to the US.

Domaine Weinbach: A Family Affair

We found another treasure of a winery in Alsace- Domaine Weinbach. Their estate is also their family home, and it’s a fairytale come to life, with a gorgeous stone wishing well, a babbling brook, gorgeous vineyards and roses everywhere. The tasting was held in their family kitchen, and it was so cool to see how the family lives and works together over many generations. Their Reislings are sublime and we adored their Pinot Gris.

Noteworthy Alsatian Wines:

• Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2022 Riesling Clos Hauserer: Dry and fruity, this wine can age for 10-20 years, particularly the Grand Cru varieties. Only harvested by hand, with long pressing and natural fermentation in casks, it’s a true expression of Alsatian terroir.
• Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2022 Grand Cru Riesling Rangen Clos Saint Urbain: Grown in volcanic soil, this wine is rich in minerality and acidity with a long finish. Best enjoyed after at least 5 years of aging.
• Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2017 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl: Dry yet flavorful, this Pinot Gris is rounder and less acidic than the Riesling, offering a different but equally delightful tasting experience.
• 2022 Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Clos des Capucins: Shows delicate fruity notes such as pear and peach with empyreumatic and buttery aromas. This light-to-medium-bodied Pinot Gris expresses a pure balance between sweetness and acidity, which leads to a long-lasting finish and a mouth-watering sensation.

Sustainable Practices and Organic Wines

One of the remarkable aspects of Alsace is its commitment to sustainable viticulture. An impressive 34 percent of the region’s vineyards are organic and biodynamic. Many estates, including Zind Humbrecht, plow their plots with horses and employ sheep for grass mowing, ensuring an environmentally friendly approach to winemaking.

A Tapestry of Flavors

Alsace is a region that beckons wine lovers with its diverse and high-quality offerings. From the structured elegance of Zind Humbrecht to the charming tradition of Hugel, and the lively conversations at Domaine de l’Oriel, each winery provides a unique glimpse into the art of Alsatian winemaking. Whether you’re a fan of Riesling, Pinot Gris, or exploring the depths of Grand Cru wines, Alsace promises a memorable and enriching experience for every palate.
Cheers to discovering the wines of Alsace!

The best way to describe us (Kirk and Anne Woodyard) is that we’re interested in the stories that make the places we visit come alive. We’ve visited Europe more times than we can count, learned some entertaining stories there, and met some warm and helpful people who also enjoy the wonders of music and life in Europe. We look forward to sharing these stories and friends and experiences with our Music and Markets guests. Since 2003 we’ve hosted Music and Markets tours in France, Italy, the Netherlands, the Czech Republic, England and Spain, and in 2019 added Wonder Tours with a more intentional concentration on art and architecture, local culture, food and wine, and less time dedicated to concert-going.We also design and host custom private tours – previous locations include many French, Spanish, British and Italian regions. Between our music-related travels, we enjoy our home in the south of France. While both of us have experience in organizing travel and music groups, Kirk’s background is in project management and competitive writing, and Anne is an accomplished pianist with over forty years of teaching and performance experience. Slow Travel Tours is an affiliation of small-group tour operators who offer personalized trips in Italy, France and other European countries.